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-I;'ERSON!f!'LITIES & INCIDENTS MET ON AC'J::,;:;.s COill:J'TRY TREK.
+===== Personalities & Iincidents Met On Across Country Trek. =====
-By DOROTHY H..!'..SLUCK.
-The lure of unknown tracks once more calling, Ray in whom names strike a
+By Dorothy Hasluck.
-chord of ·r-esponse was intrigued by the name "Dampier Rangesn. So forth she
-goes with a sugge~tion that we start from Moruya, follow the Geo1·ges Pack Trail
+The lure of unknown tracks once more calling, Ray in whom names strike a chord of response was intrigued by the name "Dampier Ranges". So forth she goes with a suggestion that we start from Moruya, follow the Georges Pack Trail to Bendethra and traverse the Dampiers to Cooma. I also being fired with the idea, Ray immediately set out to gain as much information as possible, but in spite of all her efforts very little was attained, of which more anon.
-to Bendethra and traverse the Dampiers to Cooma. I also being fired with the
-idea, Ray immediately set out to gain as mucn information as possible, but in
+Arriving at Moruya we were met by very depressing accounts of the dangers that awaited us, dingoes being one, until we felt we were about to penetrate the wilds of Tibet or worse. However nothing daunted we set forth and at our first camping spot met our first two personalities in the shape of sleeper cutters. Whenever they finished work which seemed pretty frequent, they came along and just sat on their haunches saying nothing; reminding me very forcibly of the old man who when asked what he did all day said, "Sometimes I just sets and thinks and sometimes I just sets". Well, these two just set as far as I could see while Ray and I cast round desperately for topics of conversation, all falling on the desert air; especially one on vegeterianism. That was the only time I saw any expressions on their faces, which looked as though they thought us escaped lunatics.
-spite of all her efforts very little was attained, of whi·ch more anon.
-Arriving at I:Ioruya_ we were m~t by very depressing accounts of the dangers
+Through a change of plan we crossed the Dampiers instead of traversing them, thus reaching Can Eunice Station, where we were received with much kindness by Mrs. Griggs, a most interesting woman. On top of doing all the work, cooking for shearers, baking bread and making butter, she had achieved a very beautiful garden, was most artistic and very well read. In the course of conversation she mentioned that a Mr. Jack Woods had last year crossed Black Badger from Cooma and called at the Station. You can imagine Ray's disgust on hearing this, as she was in the habit of seeing the gentleman almost every day and hadn't even known he walked. Methinks he was a dark horse.
-that awaited us, dingoes being one, until we felt we were about to penetrate.the
-wilds of Tibet or worse. However nothing daunted we set forth and at our first
+We left here with very warm feelings for the occupants and proceeded to the local P.O. as I wanted to send a wire, rather unheard of you'd think, when I was met with "Whatever do you want to send a wire for?" There was then a wild hunt for the one and only pencil, the mother finally deciding after about ten minutes that the child must have taken it. All the time a long harangue went on about the amount the Government charged for its services, the effect of which was rather lost on discovering that she had overcharged me. To cap all, after making out the form, with a grumbled "Why should I keep this?" she crumpled it up and threw it into the waste paper basket before the outraged eyes of we two business women.
-camping spot met our first two pers0l1alities in the shape of sleeper cutters.
-Whenever they finished work vvhich seemed pretty freq-uent, they came along and
+Our next port of call was a small farm where we were to get directions for a short cut. Short, did I say? These people were most hospitable and we were very impressed by the self sacrifice of the wife, who though not in very good health and with a great deal of work to do, had put aside her petrol iron so that she might do her share in the saving of petrol.
-just sat on their haunches.saying nothing; reminding me very forcibly of the
-old man who when asked what he did all day said, "Sometimes I just sets and thinks
+The next day was very cold and bleak and on calling at a house some miles further on for more instructions, the woman with one look at our bare legs said, "O- come into the fire. God he help you". She then told us to continue on until we came to the sixth house from where we could cut across to Parker's Gap, and thence on to Captain's Flat. We went on and on, the sixth house turning out to be twelve miles away. By this time the short cut had run into 22 miles so we decided to call it a day, as the Gap still loomed in the distant hills.
-and sometimes I just sets". Well, these two just set as far as I could see
-while Ray and I cast round desperately for topics of conversation, all falling
-on the d~sert air; especially one on-vegeterianism. That was the only time I saw
+The country is full of surprises, for as we were wending our way through the bush the next day, we met a bullock team driven by a boy wearing a King's School badge. After a few hours walking we reached Cuptain's Flat, so called after a famous bullock which had died there. Amidst all the mining buildings and debris, there was one lone tree which Ray was quite sure must have been the tree the famous Captain had used to rub his back agninst, as never would it have been spared otherwise; the one spot of beauty amidst the desolation.
-any expressions on their faces, which looked o.s though they thought us escaped
-lunatics.
+He concluded our trip at Canberra which was garbed in all the beauty of spring, forming a strong contrast to Nature's beauty through which we had trekked in the last fortnight.
-Through a change of plan we crossed the Dampiers instead of traversing them,
-thus reachir-g Can Eunice Station, where we were received vvi th much kindness by
+These are just a few of the personal incidents which, to me, add greatly to the enjoyment of a trip. There is so much to be learned from contact with people other than those we are meeting every day, for it gives us a wider understanding, the lack of which is responsible for much of the hatred and strife in the world.
-Mrs. Griggs, a most interesting woman. On tqp of doing all the work, cooking for
-shearers, baY~ng bread ~nd making butter, she had achieved a very beautiful
+----
-garden, was most artistic and very well read~ In the course of conversation
-she mentioned that a Mr. Jack Woods had last year crossed Black Badger from
+===== New Guinea. =====
-Cooma and calle~ at the Station. You can imag~ne Ray's disgust on hearing this;
-as she was in the habit of seeing the gentleman almost every day and hadn't even
+by Hec Carruthers?
-known he walked. Methinks he was a dark horse.
-We left here with very warm feelings for the occupants and proceeded to the
+When I first knew I was on my way to New Guinea I tried to conjure up all the news I had heard and read about the place and could only remember something about head hunters. I recalled hearing Jock Marshall lecturing one night but I was very hazy as to what the country was like. Full of expectations of something tropical I watched the dim distant coastline gradually assume larger proportions and through the shimmering heat haze I discerned mountains in the distance.
-local P.O. as I wanted to send a wire, rather unheard of you'd think, vn1en I was
-met with 111iifhatever do you want to. send a wire for? 11 There was then a vJild hunt
+On a very hot afternoon we disembarked and I was very much interested in the native population who seemed to be lying around in convenient patches of shade. The scene just looked like a bush walker reunion after lunch. The natives were only wearing ramis and showed well developed torsos. At first glance they looked like women as they have large mops of frizzy hair which is usually adorned with a tropical flower - the frangipanni is very popular. Their features are good and they are not what I pictured head hunters to be. When spoken to they usually giggle although a number of mission taught boys are always ready to do business such as washing of clothes or the selling of bangles, bananas, etc.
-for the one and only pencil, the mother finally deciding after about ten minutes
-that the child must have taken it. All the time a long harangue went on about
+These chaps usually live in the native villages which fringe the shores. Some of these are very picturesque as they are framed in a grove of cocoanut palms. Pigs, dogs and piccaninnies roam around the huts and play together in the dust and mud. Their dwellings consist of huts built on poles and constructed from bambos and woven palm leaves. They are rather cool to live in and are waterproof even in heavy rainstorms. The women do most of the work in the camp and it is quite the usual thing to see a kikenny chopping the wood while the menfolk sit around yarning or smoking plug tobacco. The women mostly wear only a grass skirt in accordance with the tropical stories. So far the natives have been like bush walkers but when gear has to be carried it is always the woman who does the carrying. Rather a good idea I think. She uses a woven dilly bag which hangs over her back and is supported by a hand around her forehead.
-the amount the Government charged for its services, the effect of which was
-rather lost on discovering that she had overcharged me. To cap all, after
+On first appearance the countryside is very similar to our own State especially on the southern coastal area around Gerringong. Gum trees grow profusely and intermingle with pandanus palms and pawpaw trees. In order to provide shade the inhabitants have planted a very pleasant glade of casuarina trees. Further out from the town small peculiar shaped hills break up the coastal plains and present some fine sights. Rocky knolls are a feature of the landscape and combine with a mantle of green foliage in creating an impression of verdent pastures. From a high vantage point a fine view can be obtained of a large area which includes a few miles of coastline out from which lazy breakers form a line of white foam as they curl over the coral reef. Small hills in the immediate foreground lead up to a vast mountain range culminating in the mighty Mount Victoria which rises to nearly 14,000 feet and forms parf of the Owen Stanley Range. From this same viewpoint the whole countryside presents a mixture of greens as trees, bushes and grasses intermingle and provide homes for numerous wallabies and bandicoots. Away in the distance a line of dark green trees denote the course of the Lalaki River with its rapids and crocodiles.
-making out the. form, with a grumbled 111Nhy should I kee_p this?" she crumpled it
-up and threw it into the waste paper basket before the outraged eyes of we two
+Portions of this river are very similar to the Port Hacking with the exception that now and aguin cocoanut and banana plantations remind one that he is still in the tropics. Further upstream however, the whole countryside alters and the river rushes wildly over huge boulders and between towering and precipitous cliffs. That is in the mountainous region where some fine scenery rouses the bush walker blood and makes the photographer very enthusiastic.
-business women.
-Our next port of call was a small farm where we were to get directions for
+It was in the mountains that Arthur Austin and myself spent a very pleasant time chatting over past experiances and admiring the scenery. It was the first time I had met Arthur for two years so we had a lot to say to each other. We did not boil the billy although we did enjoy a drink from a delightful mountain stream that splashed down some rocky walls.
-a short cut. Short, did I say? These people were most hospitable and we were
-very impressed by the self sacrifice of the wife, w~o though not in very good
+It is amongst the mountains that the Laloki finds its source and there are a number of views that remind me of portions of the Kowmung. For the first few miles the river falls rapidly and rushes over rocky bars before plunging for 250 feet down to a narrow canyon where it roars as it twists and turns around massive blocks of conglomerate rock that litter the narrow defile. Patches of tropical jungle growth are seen occasionally as vines and tall trees intertwine and form almost impenetrable forests. The whole area is similar to our Macquarie Pass with massive rocky walls forming the sides of the valley.
-health and vrith a great deal of work to do, had put aside her petrol iron so
-that she might do her share in the saving of petrml.
+Walking up here is not a very popular pastime as the heat does not encourage undue exertion. There are plenty of places worthy of a visit but off the beaten track the long grass hides pitfalls in the form of holes, rocks and logs. There are numerous cruks and springs about but it is not always advisable to drink the water as the natives cannot be trusted in their method of hygeine.
-The next day was very cold and bleak and on calling at a house some miles
-c
+A few miles back from the town there arc some high spots from where views of distant mountain ranges can be seen beckoning to the wanderer to come and explore. They look very interesting but so far I have not been able to go and have a look at them. Camping in this area is very pleasant and reminded me of some of our week end camps around the mountains. Our tent was situated in a very picturesque spot surrounded by trees and other tall chaps that grow in clumps. We enjoyed some very good cups of coffee while at this camp and I introduced the beverage to the boys, as we had fresh milk and American coffee the results were better than I expected. We were also fortunate in being able to obtain bananas, paw paws, tomatoes pumpkins and sweet potatoes, all brought in by the natives. It was quite the usual thing to see a native come to the tent with a bundle under his arm and say "noospaper". He would immediately barter a few sheets of paper for his fruit or vegetable and he went away quite contented he could go and roll a few cigarettes and enjoy a quiet smoke for a few hours before running out of "noospaper". These chaps can speak a little of our language but have some amusing ways of describing various things? Most of the Bushwalkers will remember the way they describe the cross-cut saw:- "Brother belong axe, pullem him come, push em him go, all time kai kai (cut) tree." They are not always so roundabout in their descriptions and if properly educated and trained are quite brainy and useful. I have met a few who could speak as well as most white men and who were well educated and interesting. They are very few, however, most of the natives being simple folk who have a very amusing way of laughing at life.
-further on for more instructions, the woma ... ~ .<..t:: one look r;;t. our bare legs said.t
-"0- come into the fire• God he help you". She tlwn tolcl us to continue on until
+Bird life around Port Moresby is very scarcc, the most common visitor being the noisy friar who certainly keeps up to his name, especially early in the morning when we are trying to get a few extra minutes of sleep. The old crow roams around, unmolested, and makes some very amusing noises at appropriate moments. He is protected in this area so he can afford to Ha! Ha! Haa!
-we came to tha sixth house from where we could cut acroqe to Po.rk~r'a Gap, and
-thcmce on to Co.ptuin 's Fln.t, Wa went on nnd' on, the sixth house turning out to
+This description of Port Moresby would not be complete without some references to our own conditions. Sleep is a very precious thing although hard to obtain. Owing to the hords of mosquitos, nets are essential. This means that we spend very hot nights in our nets and although stripped off we cannot stop the perspiration from pouring out of our bodies. Mosquitoes, flies and ants all present problems but we still manage to smile and take it all in the traditional Aussie spirit, so I must thank the Club for my previous training with my follow members of the old days and I am quite happy in the fact that experience gained in the Australian bush is standing me in good stead now that events have taken a serious turn.
-be twelve miles o.wo.y. By this time ·bh\J short cut had run :t.,d:o 22. miles so 1i.'·;)
-decided to call it o. duy, o.s the Gp.p still loomed in th~;~ dist.:,1~t hills,
+Whether on the Blue Mountains of New South Wales or the Mountains of New Guinea, the spirit of comradeship still prevails and all our trials and troubles are well worth the while if ve can keep our country free from the yellow peril.
-The country is full of surprises, for c.s wo were wonor:U~-:.g on: wo.~r thrc:-1.~.gh t:; .. J
-bush tho next day, W<:l met a bullock. ten.m driven by a. boy Wuurin.;s e. :::L::;'e School
+----
-bndge. After c. few hours waU·..:i.ng v1e reached Cuptain' s :F'1o.t, so c~.1.:Llocl aft or o.
-frunous bullock which ho.d died there • Amidst all tho m:l.ui~g bl..\ildings nnd debris,
-therewo.s ona lone tree ·which Ray v1as qui to sure must have boon the tree th•.l
-fo.."llous Capto.in ho.d U£>.!cl to rub his back ngninst, as never would it ho.va been
-spared otherwise; the one spot of botlut;y o.midst the desolation.
-He concluded our trip at Co.nberro. which wn.s garbed in o.ll the boo.uty of
-spring, forming a. strong con trust to Nature Is beauty throu£;11 which we had tr0~c1.::od
-in the last fortnight.
-These arc just a. few of the personal incidents which, to me, add greo.tly
-to the enjoyment of a trip. There is so much to be learned from contact
-with peo1Jle other than those we aro ~·· ··ting every dey, for it gives us a wider
-understanding, the lack of which is :..;-ponsiblc for much of the hatred and
-strife in the world.
-NEW GUI1L .. L
-by EZC. CiJRRUTHERS?
-When I first knew I was on my v~o:y to Hew Guinea I triad to conjure up all
-the ncv~s I hnd he::trd and read about the plo.ce and could only remember something
-about head hunters. I recalled hearing Jock Marshall lecturing one
-night but I was very hazy as to what the country was like. Full of expectations
-of something tropical I watched the dim distant coastline gradually
-assume larger proportions and through the shimmering heat haze I discerned
-mountains in the distance.
-On a very hot afternoon we disembarked and I was very much intere9ted in
-the native population who seemed to be lying around in convenien~ patches of
-<;· shade. The scene just looked like a bush walker re~on after lunch. The
-natives were only wearing ramis and showed well develop~d torsos, At fi~st
-glance they looked like women as they have large mops ot frizzy hair which ~s
-~. usually ·ado:ned with a tropical flower - the frangipanni is very popular.
-Their features are good and they are not what I pictured head hunters to be.
-When spoken to they usually giggle although a number of mission taught boys
-are always reaQy to do business such as washing of clothes or the selling of
-bangles, bananas, etc.
-These chaps usually live in the native villages which fringe the shores.
-Some of these are very picturesque·· as they are framed in a grove of cocoanut
-,
-palms. Pigs, dogs and piccaninnies roam around the huts ana. play together
-in the dust and mud. Their dwellings consist of huts built.on poles and constructed
-from bambos and woven palm leaves. They are rather cool to live in and
-are mterproof even in heavy rainstorms. . The women do most of the work in the
-camp and it is quite the usual thing to se0 a kikenny chopping the wood while
-the menfo~k sit around yarning or smoki~g plug tobacco. The women mostly wear
-only a grass skirt in accordance with the tropical stories. So far the natives
-have been like bush walkers but when gear has to be carried it is always the
-woman who docs th.; carrying. Rather a good idea I think. She uses a woven
-dilly bag which hangs over her back and is supported by a hand around her
-foro head,
-On first a~)pearance the countryside is very similar to our own State especially
-on the' southern coastal area around Gerringong, Gum trees grow profu9ely and
-intermingle with pandanus Jlalms and pawpaw trees. In ord0r to provide shade
-the inhabitants have planted a very pleasant glade of casuarina trees. Furthe·r
-out from the tovm small peculiar shaped hills break up the coastal plains and
-present some fine ·sights. Rocky knolls are a feature of the landscape and
-combine with a mantle of green foliage in creating an impression of verdent
-pastures. From a high vantage point a £:ine view can. be obtained of a lexge
-area which includes a fei.v m:Lles of coastline out frqm ·vuhich lazy breakers form
-a line of white f·oam as they curl over the coral :r-cqf. Small hills in the
-immediate foreground lead up to .a vast mountain ran·ge .culminating in the .mighty
-Mount Victcilr:i t;l·which rises to nearly 1~{000 feet and ·forms p~rf of the Owen
-Stanley Range. From this same view:Joint the whole countryside ·presents a mixture
-of greens as trees, bushes and grasses intermingle and ~:>rovidc homes for
-numerous wallabies and bandicoots. Away in the distance a line of dnrk groan
-trees denote the course of the Lalaki River with its rapids and crocodiles.
-Portions of this· river are very similar to the Port He.cking. -,;i th the exception
-that now and aguin cocoanut and banana ulantations remind one that he is
-still tn the_tropics, Further upstream how~ver~ the whole countryside alters
-and the river rush~s wildly over huge boulders and between towering and precip- >
-itous cliffs. That is in the mountainous r0gion where some fine scenery rouses
-the bush walker blo9d 1?-nd makes the photographer very enthusiastic.
-It was in.tho mountains that Arthur Austin and myself spent a very pl~asant
-time chatting over past eXlJeriances and admirin,g the scenery. It was the first
-time I bad met Arthur for two yen.rs so· v'H~ h'O:d a lot to s:::w to e<:tch other. We . ' • •' •' . . ' ·. t u . . did not boil the billy although we ·did enjoy ci ·ari:nls: from a dcligl1tful mo,untain
-stream . .that splashed down some rocky vmlls. · · - '··
-It is runongst the mount<iins that the Laloki finds 'its source and there are a
-number of views that ramind m'c of portions of the Kowmung. For the first few
-miles the r.iver falls ra}Jidly and rushes oVer rocky bars before p=!-ui),ging for
-feet down to a narrow canyon where it roars as it twists and.turns around
-massive blocks of conglomerate rock that litter the narrow dofilo. Patch0s of
-tropical jungle growth are seen occasionally as vines and tall trees intertwine
-and form almost impenetrable forests.. The whole area i~ similar to our
-Macquaric Pass with massive :rocky walls for.m~ng thG sides of th~:. valley.
---------------~-----------~
-Walking up here is not a. very populc.r pc.&time as the: hoc.. t does not
-encourage undue exertion. There are lJlenty of nla.ces'- Worthy of a visit but
-off the bea.ten tra.ck the long grass hides pitfo.lls in tho form of holes, rocks
-and logs. _There are numerous cruks and springs a.bout but j_t is not always
-advisable to drink the wa.ter a.s the no.tives cannot be trustocl in their metho->3
-of hygeine.
-A few miles_bo.ck from the town there o.rc some high spots· from whore
-views of distant mountain ranges ca.n be seen beckoning to the wa.ndorur to
-come and cXj?lbre,. ·rhey look very interesting but so fa.r I have not been a.b_le
-t-o go o.nd have a look a.t them. CamJ_Jing in this a.reo. is very plca.sc.nt and.
-rom.indcd me of some of our week end ca.mps around the mountains. Our t\.n~t
-w::..s si tua.ted in a v0ry picturesque spot surrounded bzt---tr.:;es and other- ·t;a.1l
-chaps tha.t grow in clumps. We enjoyed some very good cu,s of coffee while a.t
-this camp and I introduced the beverage to the boys, as we had f~csh milk
-a.nd America.n coffee the results were better t'l;J.an I expected. We were also
-fortuna.te in being able to obta.in ba.na.na.s, paw J?:·:ws, tomo.t00S pumpkins and
-svreot pota.tQes, all brought in by the natives. It ·was quitQ the usual thing
-to soe a native come to the tent with a. bundle under his a.rm and sa.y
-"noospa.pern. He would immediately barter a. few sheets of paper for his fruit
-or vegetable and he went away quite contented he could go and roll a few
-cigarettes and enjoy a qui.::t smoke for a fov: hours before runn:i.ng out of
-noospa.:rer11 • These chaps co..n speak a. little of our la.nguo.ge but have some
-o..musing ways of describing vc.rious things? Most of the Bushwalkers wiil
-remember the way they describe the cross-c1.1.t S;J.W:- "Brother belong a.xe, pullom
-him como, push em him go, all tine kai ko..~. (.;a. t) tro0. 11 They o.re not a.lvn--.ys
-so roundabout in their descriptions o..nC. i:Z :_:r0:porly educated and trained arc
-qui to brainy a.nd useful, I h:>,ve net a. few vvho could speak as well o.s most
-white men and who were well educated and interesting. They arc very few,
-however, most of the n::-.tives being simple folk who h<.\.VC a. very a.nusing wa.y
-of laughing CLt life.
-Bird life around Port Moresby is very sco.rcc, the :most co:,tr'lon visitor
-being the noisy friCLr who certainly ke0ps UJ.) to his no.r1o, csyociuly e.::trly in
-tho morning ·when we are trying to get "'- fcvv extra. minutes of ulo0~1. 'rhG
-old crow ro;:u-:!.S q.ro und, uruno lest.:; d, <...md mo..li:.es so1~c v0 ry C\.r.msing no is.:: s o.. t
-o..ppropria.te moments. Ho is protcct0d in this area so he c~u1 afford to
-G o..y Ha.l Hd Ha.o..l
-~ This dosc:riJ.Jtion of Port Lioresby vvould not be COI:ll1leto without soi:J.e
-re:foronces to our own conditions. SloG~) is a. v-.:;ry 1)recious thing although
-ho..rd to obtn.in. Owing to tho hords of mosquitos, nets are ossoutia.l.
-~. This mo~ns tho..t we spend very hot nights in our nets o..nd although stripped
-off we c::-.n~ot stop tho pers~irCLtion fran pouring out of our bodies. Masqui
-toes, flies and a.nts all present problor:.1s but we still nc..na.ge to saile
-a.nd take it all in the trctdi tiona.l Aussie s~;iri t, so I r.n.1st tba.nk the Club
-for ny l)r.;;vious tro..ining with ny follow me1.1bers of the old da.ys o.nd I q.m
-quite ha.ppy in the fact that exporLmce gained in the Australian bush
-is st::;.nding o.e in good stead now th~::.t events hc.ve to.ken o. serious turn,
-Whether on the Blue Mountains of New South \''.los or th.c Mounto.ins of New
-Guinea., tho spirit·of coLJ.ra.deship still prcvo.ils o.nd a,.ll our trio.ls and
-troubles· o.'re ~vell worth the while if vw ·can keep our country free frou the
-ywllow peril.
 GOOBRt.~.GANDP.A CAi'IPSITE.
 For two do.ys we ho.d wo.lkod by conpuss course o.cross a bla.nk spa.cc on
@@ Line 722: / Line 592: @@
 PADDY Pii.LLIN,
 GEORGZ S'J:REET,
-SYDNEY.
+SYDNEY