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+=====The Matterhorn - A Traverse.=====
-THE EETELHORN
 By Leon Blumer.
-As we gradually approached the hut in the late afternoon the Hornli ridge loomed above our heads. Ye had already viewed the Matterhorn from various sides aad marvelled at its impossible outline, its airy ridges and faces, so it was with a little trepidation that Brian and I tried to visualise the route for the next morning. Such was our respect for the peak that ze had left Janet at Zermatt, Janet having been with us previously on the Dent Blanche, a much more difficult peak in all respects.
-The
+As we gradually approached the hut in the late afternoon the Hornli ridge loomed above our heads. We had already viewed the Matterhorn from various sides aad marvelled at its impossible outline, its airy ridges and faces, so it was with a little trepidation that Brian and I tried to visualise the route for the next morning. Such was our respect for the peak that we had left Janet at Zermatt, Janet having been with us previously on the Dent Blanche, a much more difficult peak in all respects.
-blanket soup (so provided This was we slept
-hut, of course, was full to the brim, so we grabbed a
+The hut, of course, was full to the brim, so we grabbed a blanket each and slept on the table after the usual supper of maggi soup (so thick that a spoon would stand upright). Ropes and rucksack provided the necessary padding, and we actually slept for a few hours. This was our fourth week in the Alps and we cared little when and where we slept.
-each and slept an the table after the usual supper of maggi thick that a spoon would stand upright). Ropes and rucksack the necessary padding, and we actually slept for a few hours. our fourth week in the Alps and we cared little When said wher(
-Rising at 2.30 a.m. is always a horrible affair, especially when other people are striving to get away before the app ointed time. Despite the confusion we joined in with the hordes about 5 a.m. in the chill light of dawn. Down below, Zermatt was still covered by a sea of clouds - very beautiful when the first rays of the sun touched this billowy sea. It was going to be a fine day, a necessity for the ever-changing Matterhorn.
+Rising at 2.30 a.m. is always a horrible affair, especially when other people are striving to get away before the appointed time. Despite the confusion we joined in with the hordes about 5 a.m. in the chill light of dawn. Down below, Zermatt was still covered by a sea of clouds - very beautiful when the first rays of the sun touched this billowy sea. It was going to be a fine day, a necessity for the ever-changing Matterhorn.
-The first two hours were spent scrambling with the crowds along a rather loose ridge, with a splendid view of the east face. Some of the Zermatt guides donft believe in manners, and Brian, as leader, had a brush with one who pushed past into the few remaining feet between a previous party and ourselves. It is very annoying to climb under thesc conditions, but gradually the parties thinned out aad we recovered our previous good humour.
-After. the Solway Refuge the ridge narrowed and shot up vertically, the climbing becoming very difficult and exposed. We were held up by a few more slow parties, some with rather poor rope techniqlle, but we managed to pass on some easier gendarmes until a 100-ft. ice slope was reached. We followed the example of an Austrian couple and donned crampons for this stretch, but felt afterwards that it would have been perfectly safe in boots. It was quite windy and cold above this, so hastened to remove crampons and came quickly to the fixed ropes below the shoulder. The exposure here was good - one slip and we would fly downwards into thin air for thousands of feet. In our enthusiasm we pressed on up the fixed ropes, iced-up and progress so slaw that, aftel, the first 200-ft. my fingers lost feeling, and I found myself ready to faint through cold shock.
+The first two hours were spent scrambling with the crowds along a rather loose ridge, with a splendid view of the east face. Some of the Zermatt guides don't believe in manners, and Brian, as leader, had a brush with one who pushed past into the few remaining feet between a previous party and ourselves. It is very annoying to climb under these conditions, but gradually the parties thinned out and we recovered our previous good humour.
-Luckily Brian was leading aad did not seem too badly affected but as we had been going for four hours, we stopped on a sunny platform for second breakfast. Out of the bitter wind we filled ourselves with concentrated food and quickly recovered strength and warmth. There is more to mountaineering than pure climbing, and I have heard of leaders falling off climbs through neglecting this first principle.
-.
+After the Solway Refuge the ridge narrowed and shot up vertically, the climbing becoming very difficult and exposed. We were held up by a few more slow parties, some with rather poor rope technique, but we managed to pass on some easier gendarmes until a 100-ft. ice slope was reached. We followed the example of an Austrian couple and donned crampons for this stretch, but felt afterwards that it would have been perfectly safe in boots. It was quite windy and cold above this, so hastened to remove crampons and came quickly to the fixed ropes below the shoulder. The exposure here was good - one slip and we would fly downwards into thin air for thousands of feet. In our enthusiasm we pressed on up the fixed ropes, iced-up and progress so slow that, after the first 200-ft. my fingers lost feeling, and I found myself ready to faint through cold shock.
+Luckily Brian was leading and did not seem too badly affected but as we had been going for four hours, we stopped on a sunny platform for second breakfast. Out of the bitter wind we filled ourselves with concentrated food and quickly recovered strength and warmth. There is more to mountaineering than pure climbing, and I have heard of leaders falling off climbs through neglecting this first principle.
 Without the fixed ropes the Matterhorn would be a most interesting climb indeed.
-Numerous parties passed either up or down Whilst we enjoyed our snack and silent reverie. The clouds above Zermatt were clearing and showed the town nestling like a jewel between steep hills and fields Ourold friends, Dent Blanche and Zinal Rotham looked particularly fierce, stray WisIDS of cloud hovering round their mnmits and ridges. An Imerican girl and guide passed, the girl remarking that it was the first and last time she would ever climb a mountain. She had a bad habit of clutching the ropes and swinging like a pendulum, so I can only say that guides do earn their money with most people.
-More fixed ropes led up the steep nose to the top of the actual shoulder, somewhere near the position of the famous Whymper party accident. This was nice and airy, with a 300-ft. steep rock and ice slope which plunged down to our ridge to the overhanging slabs of the west face. ffe tried to save time here by climbing the first 150-ft. of ice-steps in boots, but quickly became involved with descending parties. We had too much rope out, Brian being belayed about half-way down the slope. After a muddle of about five minutes, plus some hard words exchanged with guides and other descending parties, I managed to bring Brian up to a safe position raid we used crampons for the remainder of the slope. There is much danger in having too many parties on a peak, and one slip here would have been disastrous. We had already been told by an English climber of the lone Austrian who, before his eyes, had slipped and plummetted down the same ice slope.
+Numerous parties passed either up or down whilst we enjoyed our snack and silent reverie. The clouds above Zermatt were clearing and showed the town nestling like a jewel between steep hills and fields. Our old friends, Dent Blanche and Zinal Rotham looked particularly fierce, stray wisps of cloud hovering round their summits and ridges. An American girl and guide passed, the girl remarking that it was the first and last time she would ever climb a mountain. She had a bad habit of clutching the ropes and swinging like a pendulum, so I can only say that guides do earn their money with most people.
+More fixed ropes led up the steep nose to the top of the actual shoulder, somewhere near the position of the famous Whymper party accident. This was nice and airy, with a 300-ft. steep rock and ice slope which plunged down to our ridge to the overhanging slabs of the west face. We tried to save time here by climbing the first 150-ft. of ice-steps in boots, but quickly became involved with descending parties. We had too much rope out, Brian being belayed about half-way down the slope. After a muddle of about five minutes, plus some hard words exchanged with guides and other descending parties, I managed to bring Brian up to a safe position and we used crampons for the remainder of the slope. There is much danger in having too many parties on a peak, and one slip here would have been disastrous. We had already been told by an English climber of the lone Austrian who, before his eyes, had slipped and plummetted down the same ice slope.
 We breasted the ridge and were struck by a feeling of great height and remoteness. All other people, except a lone Swiss and the Austrian couple, had departed, and it was very pleasant to balance along to the Italian summit to admire the splendid view.
-We had already taken six hours, much more time than we had intended, and we had doubts as to whether to attempt the complete traverse. The Italian face fell away below our feet in a dizzy precipice, and by craning our necks we could see that the Italian ridge butted against it somewhere below us on the right. Mist rose
-up to meet us and this made it seem all the more spectacular. We knew it was a difficult ridge, and we nervously considered the pros and cons. Will we or won't we? Yes, we will! (This with a confidence we did not feel.) We committed ourselves gingerly to the first section with a large amount of anxiety, I being painfully aware of sweaty hands and a pumping heart.
+We had already taken six hours, much more time than we had intended, and we had doubts as to whether to attempt the complete traverse. The Italian face fell away below our feet in a dizzy precipice, and by craning our necks we could see that the Italian ridge butted against it somewhere below us on the right. Mist rose up to meet us and this made it seem all the more spectacular. We knew it was a difficult ridge, and we nervously considered the pros and cons. Will we or won't we? Yes, we will! (This with a confidence we did not feel.) We committed ourselves gingerly to the first section with a large amount of anxiety, I being painfully aware of sweaty hands and a pumping heart.
 The third cord, a rope ladder, was rather horrible, iced-up, decayed, and with a few rungs missing. It swings out over the precipice, and creaks and groans when, at half-way, you have to transfer to the inside rungs. I have usually a steady head over sheer space but was acutely conscious of the fact that it would be impossible to hold once the ladder broke. The mist enveloped us more than once and added to the sublimity of the depths.
-The Italian shoulder was reached and the going, though still
-exposed, became much easier up and down jagged gendarnes. We were the
+The Italian shoulder was reached and the going, though still exposed, became much easier up and down jagged gendarnes. We were the only two on that side but nanaged to find scratch marks and occasional footsteps on the snowy parts of the ridge. Most of the rock strata sloped downwards and outwards and there were some pitches which would equal any severe English rock climb if the ropes were removed. Below one especially difficult pitch which Brian (as last man) had to rope down, we found a plaque commemorating a famous Swiss guide, Otto Tuhrer who was killed last year by the cord breaking. We congratulated ourselves on our slower but surer belay technique.
-.
-PHOTOGRAPHY ! I !
+We lost the route after this, and found ourselves on the precipitous Italian face. We tried twice to find the route before realising that scratch marks led above a snow slope, around a corner and across to the main ridge. To have kept down the face on a subsidiary ridge would have been suicidal. Stones rattle down this at all hours.
-You press the buttons. we'll do the rest !
-Finegrain
+About 3.0 p.m., after a few more difficult pitches down the ridge, the Savoia hut was reached, a welcome sight to two weary climbers. This refuge is perched on a small gap in the ridges and occupies quite an airy position - no place for sleepwalkers. Two Italian climbers occupied it, and generously offered us a cup of tea. One side of the hut was littered with empty Chianti bottles, so we should imagine the Italian side is not without its attractions. We brewed a marvellous soup on our small petrol stove and, while drinking this, an Englishman, with friend and two guides burst into the hut and complimented us an our route-finding tactics. We had been observed from 3,000-ft. below dithering about near the small snow patch, and the Italian guides seemed happy that they did not need to go looking for us that evening. We gathered from the Englishman that the way dawn from the Col du Lion was perfectly straightforward, so we gaily set forth over the few remaining pitches to the Col.
-Developing
-!Sparkling
+Our triumph was short-lived. To the right the cliff looked steep and loose, below us a steep snow couloir led down to the glacier, but we did not want rocks on our heads that time of day. We tried three times to find the route, so in desperation followed down a loose rock wall to the left of cliffs overhanging the main glacier. We slunk down in our shame, hoping that our bad route finding was not being observed by the friendly Italians.
-i Prints
-Perfect
+A hail from the hut 700-ft0 above our heads showed they were still taking an interest in our future. Too late, we were then half-way down the rocky wall. On the glacier a further shock awaited us - an 8O-ft. ice cliff above an enormous gaping bergschrund, probably 100 - 150-ft. deep, brought us to a sickening halt. Lord, what will we do? However we climbed over to below the rock cliffs at their junction with the ice and Brian played out the rope as I climbed down 50-ft. to a frail looking ice bridge, where I managed to belay with the axe. It was difficult, Brian half-climbing half-abseiling from a small spike of rock, which I had to watch closely for any signs of giving. Half-way down the rope was flicked off, and I drew in the slack. Here was probably the most dangerous moment of the whole day, and it was with genuine relief that my friend reached the ice bridge and rejoined me.
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-only two on that side but nanaged to find scratch marks and occasional footsteps on the snowy parts of the ridge. Most of the rock strata sloped downwards and outwards and there were some pitches which would equal any severe English rock climb if the ropes were removed. Below one especially difficult pitch which Brian (as last man) had to rope down, we found a plaque commemorating a famous Swiss guide, Otto Tuhrer who was killed last year by the cord breaking. We congratulated ourselves on our slower but surer belay technique.
-We lost the route after this, and found ourselves on the precipitous Italian face. We tried twice to find the route before realising that scratch marks led above a snow slope, around a corner and across to the main ridge. To have kept dcmn the face on a subsidiary ridge would have been suicidal. Stones rattle down this at all hours.
-About 3.0 p.m., after a few more difficult pitches down the ridge, the Savoia hut was reached, a welcome sight to two weary climbers. This refuge is perched on a small gap in the ridges and occupies quite an airy position - no place for sleepwalkers. Two Italian climbers occupied it, and generously offered us a cup of tea. One side of the
-.
-hut was littered with empty Chianti bottles, so we should imagine the Italian side is not without its attractions. We brewed a marvellous soup an our small petrol stove and, while drinking this, an Englishmal, with friend and two guides burst into the hut and complimented us an our route-finding tactics. We had been observed from 3,000-ft. beim dithering about near the small snow patch, and the Italian guides seemed happy that they did not need to go looking for us that evening. We gathered from the Englishman that the way dawn from the Col du Lion was perfectly straightforward, so we gaily set forth over the few remaining pitches to tire Col.
-Our triumph was dhort-lived. To the right the cliff looked steep and loose, below us a steep snow couloir led down to the glacier, but we did not want rocks on cur heads that time of day. We tried three times to find the route, so in desperation followed down a loose rock wall to the left of cliffs overhanging the main glacier. We slunk down in our shame, hoping that our bad route finding was not being observed by the friendly Italians.
-A hail from the hut 700-ft0 above our heads showed they were stil, taking an interest in our future. Too late, we were then half-way day,' the rocky wall. On the glacier a further shock awaited us - an 8O1. ice cliff above an enormous gaping bergschrund, probably 100 - 150-ft0
-deep, brought us to a sickening half. Lord, what will we do? However we climbed over to below the rock cliffs at their junction with the ice and Brian played out the rope as I climbed down 50-ft. to a frail looking ice bridge, where I managed to belay with the axe. It was difficult, Brian half-climbing half-abseiling from a small spike of rock, which I had to watch closely for any signs af giving. Half-way down the rope was flicked off, and T. drew in the slack. Here was probably the most dangerous moment of the Whole day, and it was with genuine relief that my friend reached the ice bridge and rejoined me.
 It took only a moment to recoil the rope, and we were flying down the glacier in the gathering twilight. We noticed a huge stone shoot down the couloir so decided we had probably chosen the best way off under the circumstances.
-About a quarter hour from the bergscbrund we noticed the real track coming down on our right. It must have wandered across the loos rock cliff from the Col du Lion. We then met two jovial Italian guide, carrying enormous loads. They were going to join with the Swiss guide, the following day in a memorial service to Otto Tuhrer. We have heard recently that another guide was killed because of a breaking rope. Oh, well, more memorial services and plaques.
-Down to the hut of the Duke D'Abbruzzi in cloying mist a bit travelworn but very happy to have savoured the delights of the famous peak. We had considered pushing an over the Purg Joch in an attempt to reach Zermatt that evening or the following morning. The prospect of getting caught out on the glacier didn't seem to appal us as much as it did the hut proprietor who insisted on our staying the night, and finished up bringing his fee down to half-price. This was capital clean sheets and good food instead of dates and rock shelter jolly good. We were also amazed at the attention and meals received that
+About a quarter hour from the bergscbrund we noticed the real track coming down on our right. It must have wandered across the loose rock cliff from the Col du Lion. We then met two jovial Italian guides carrying enormous loads. They were going to join with the Swiss guides the following day in a memorial service to Otto Tuhrer. We have heard recently that another guide was killed because of a breaking rope. Oh well, more memorial services and plaques.
-.
-night. Haggling over prices earns respect from all Continentals, so it seems.
+Down to the hut of the Duke D'Abbruzzi in cloying mist a bit travel worn but very happy to have savoured the delights of the famous peak. We had considered pushing on over the Furg Joch in an attempt to reach Zermatt that evening or the following morning. The prospect of getting caught out on the glacier didn't seem to appeal us as much as it did the hut proprietor who insisted on our staying the night, and finished up bringing his fee down to half-price. This was capital - clean sheets and good food instead of dates and rock shelter - jolly good. We were also amazed at the attention and meals received that night. Haggling over prices earns respect from all Continentals, so it seems.
-The following day we wandered up to the Furg Joch, ambled across the Theodule glacier with its delightful panoramas, then down a windir4 track to Zermatt and the flesh pots. The most famous peak of them all had been conquered. We were supremely happy.
-(AAbseiling is a method of descendfng by virtually sitting in a loop of the rope, which is slung loosr;ly over a projection, the climber allowing the free end to pass through his legs and hands, so controlling his speed of descent.)
+The following day we wandered up to the Furg Joch, ambled across the Theodule glacier with its delightful panoramas, then down a winding track to Zermatt and the flesh pots. The most famous peak of them all had been conquered. We were supremely happy.
-MORE INFLATION.
+(Abseiling is a method of descendfng by virtually sitting in a loop of the rope, which is slung loosely over a projection, the climber allowing the free end to pass through his legs and hands, so controlling his speed of descent.)
+----
+=====More Inflation.=====
 By "Crikey".
 Inflation has been a ready-made subject for the financial critics and a lot of space has been devoted in the newspaper advertisements to inflation as a means of making prominent objects more prominent: but we noticed a different slant in an overseas magazine. The U.S. firm of B.F. Goodrich has developed a tent capable of accommodating 100 men, and which is made in eight sections joined up by 320 feet of zipper. There are no tent poles. Built-in air pockets are inflated into ribs and the whole can be erected in six minutes, the ribs being sufficiently rigid to maintain the walls without poles.
-This brings us to the point where we can visualise some day our l'Paddymade tents being constructed on a somewhat igloo pattern, with built-in ribs of plastic tubing, and a featherweight pump to supply the necessary rigidity. A hollow rib at either end, and one in the centre, with a long one to form a back-bone on the ridge, all interconnected to the latter, might prove a practical idea. One peg for each corner only would save weight. The igloo would provide more elbow rcanwhen one was confined during rain. Again, the tent could be moved holus-bolus at will to gain the shade of a tree or to beat a retreatfrom the chronic snorer next-door. And, last but not least, what fun could be had with a sharp Din!:
+This brings us to the point where we can visualise some day our "Paddymade" tents being constructed on a somewhat igloo pattern, with built-in ribs of plastic tubing, and a featherweight pump to supply the necessary rigidity. A hollow rib at either end, and one in the centre, with a long one to form a back-bone on the ridge, all interconnected to the latter, might prove a practical idea. One peg for each corner only would save weight. The igloo would provide more elbow room when one was confined during rain. Again, the tent could be moved holus-bolus at will to gain the shade of a tree or to beat a retreat from the chronic snorer next-door. And, last but not least, what fun could be had with a sharp pin!!
 A late suggestion has come in that wind from general meetings may be bottled in aluminium containers and issued free to the owners of pneumatic tents.
-.saMI,IYOMI.M.1.1.111.11
-You lucky people don't know, how close you were to getting a magazine of 19i pages last month. On second thoughts, seeing whose item was on the bottom of page 11, you may have been lucky to escape it. Anyway, as Brian picked up the stencil, it "just cane apart in his bands". Horror, panic - but by happy circumstance Ken Meadows and car were there: Brian was whisked back to his office, with a blank wax sheet, while the rest of the production team sweated over the damaged stencil and finally fixed it to the duplicator (mostly
+----
-with ink and faith). By whidh time the production expert was back with a new bottom half (of the stencil, we mean) - and the presses rolled again.
-.
+You lucky people don't know how close you were to getting a magazine of 19 1/2 pages last month. On second thoughts, seeing whose item was on the bottom of page 11, you may have been lucky to escape it. Anyway, as Brian picked up the stencil, it "just came apart in his bands". Horror, panic - but by happy circumstance Ken Meadows and car were there: Brian was whisked back to his office, with a blank wax sheet, while the rest of the production team sweated over the damaged stencil and finally fixed it to the duplicator (mostly with ink and faith). By which time the production expert was back with a new bottom half (of the stencil, we mean) - and the presses rolled again.
+----
 FOR WE OURSELVES HAVE SAID IT
 ....1%MNI,111110.11 MIIISLY14,17.11...1111040 11 WeavilION.INA1