User Tools

Site Tools


195710

Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

Link to this comparison view

Both sides previous revisionPrevious revision
Next revision
Previous revision
Last revisionBoth sides next revision
195710 [2016/02/04 17:19] – [Your Walking Guide] kennettj195710 [2016/03/29 13:04] – [Seven Weeks in New Zealand -- Part VIII] kennettj
Line 1: Line 1:
-====== THE SYDNEY BUSHWALKER. ======+**THE SYDNEY BUSHWALKER**
  
-A monthly bulletin of matters of interest to the Sydney Bush Walkers, c/- Ingersoll Hall, 256 ,Crown Street, Sydney. Box No, 4476, G.P.O., Sydney. 'Phone: JW 1462.+A monthly bulletin of matters of interest to the Sydney Bush Walkers, c/- Ingersoll Hall, 256 ,Crown Street, Sydney. Box No, 4476, G.P.O., Sydney. Phone: JW 1462.
  
 **274 OCTOBER, 1957 Price 9d.** **274 OCTOBER, 1957 Price 9d.**
Line 32: Line 32:
  
 In the absence of Bill Cosgrove the agenda motion for taking out 50 memberships of the National Parks Association was not debated, but Tom Moppett said that in the revised constitution, to be considered at In the absence of Bill Cosgrove the agenda motion for taking out 50 memberships of the National Parks Association was not debated, but Tom Moppett said that in the revised constitution, to be considered at
-the next meeting of the Association, provision was being made for +the next meeting of the Association, provision was being made for corporate members. Members of organisations which became corporate members could become group members. Every 25 group members of any given organisation entitled their representative to an additional vote. Tom moved, and it was resolved, that we become corporate members at a fee of ₤1 a year.
-corporate members. Members of organisations which became corporate members could become group members. Every 25 group members of any given organisation entitled their representative to an additional vote.  Tom moved, and it was resolved, that we become corporate members at a fee of ₤1 a year.+
  
-Tom Moppett also told us that Malcolm McGregor had, by some secret +Tom Moppett also told us that Malcolm McGregor had, by some secret manoeuvre, lined up a valuable publicity medium, and asked anyone who could supply coloured slides of wild flowers to get in touch with him (Tom).
-manoeuvre, lined up a valuable publicity medium, and asked anyone who could supply coloured slides of wild flowers to get in touch with him (Tom).+
  
 +The ski-hut committee had nothing to add to their previous month's reports except that it had heard, through Paddy Pallin, that it might be possible to acquire White's River Hut. On request, Paddy gave the meeting a description of the hut, which he had stayed in during his recent trip from Kosciusko to Kiandra. Paddy said it was a small corrugated iron hut, lined with caneite, accessible from the Munyang Power station - a distance of about 4 miles. There were two jeep tracks leading close to it, one of which, leading to a hydrographic station, would probably be kept in reasonable repair. The position was sheltered and the snow excellent and lasting for some five months. The fire place smoked. Accommodation was for 8 or 10. It would be accessible by jeep or Land Rover in summer. It was a very good centre for ski touring.
  
-The ski-hut committee had nothing to add to their previous month's reports except that it had heard, through Paddy Pallin, that it might be possible to acquire White's River Hut. On request, Paddy gave the meeting a description of the hut, which he had stayed in during his recent trip from Kosciusko to Kiandra. Paddy said it was a small corrugated iron hut, lined with caneite, accessible from the Munyang Power station - a distance of about 4 miles. There were two jeep tracks leading close to it, one of which, leading to a hydrographic station, would probably be kept in reasonable repair. The +Peter Stitt said that the hut we would have to build in Perisher Valley was not the hut we had set out to have, being far more elaborate than we needed. Colin Putt said that when we talked of ski huts we stopped being bushwalkers and resembled the skiers displayed in Farmers and Mark Foys. He said it was possible to walk on snow; this he had proved by a series of experiments. Snow Brown said that the Newcastle Bushwalkers had overcome much greater obstacles to build their hut on Barringtonhaving to carry everything up 4,000 feet. John Scott said he had made an estimate of the projected Perisher hut, designed by Laurie Rayner, and made the cost about ₤700 for material only. The ski hut committee was requested to make further inquiries about White's River hut.
-position was sheltered and the snow excellent and lasting for some +
-five months. The fire place smoked. Accommodation was for 8 or 10. It would be accessible by jeep or Land Rover in summer. It was a very good centre for ski touring, +
- +
-Peter Stitt said that the hut we would have to build in Perisher Valley was not the hut we had set out to have, being far more elaborate than we needed. Colin Putt said that when we talked of ski huts we stopped being bushwalkers and resembled the skiers displayed in Farmers and Mark Foys. He said it was possible to walk on snow; this he had proved by a series of experiments. Snow Brown said that the Newcastle Bushwalkers had overcome much greater obstacles to build their hut on Barringtonhaving to carry everything up 4,000 feet. John Scott said he had made an estimate of the projected Perisher hut, designed by Laurie Rayner, and made the cost about ₤700 for material only. The ski hut committee was requested to make further inquiries about White's River hut.+
  
 On a motion by Allan Hardie, it was decided to support the Caloola Club's efforts to stop the granting of snow leases in the Kosciusko area, He quoted the disastrous effect of a fire on Mt. Twynam in 1940 and the effect of sheep "still munching grass 24 hours a day, seven days a week." Most speakers were in favour, but Betty Sisley supported the policy of the Lands Department, which she said, worked in very closely with the Soil Conservation Commission, in the granting of leases. On a motion by Allan Hardie, it was decided to support the Caloola Club's efforts to stop the granting of snow leases in the Kosciusko area, He quoted the disastrous effect of a fire on Mt. Twynam in 1940 and the effect of sheep "still munching grass 24 hours a day, seven days a week." Most speakers were in favour, but Betty Sisley supported the policy of the Lands Department, which she said, worked in very closely with the Soil Conservation Commission, in the granting of leases.
Line 49: Line 44:
 Tom Moppett then moved that the initiation ceremony be dropped from future re-unions. Nearly everybody had something to say on this. Some thought initiation was "childish," "so much bunk", or "useless". Several suggested that more originality was called for. Tom Moppett then moved that the initiation ceremony be dropped from future re-unions. Nearly everybody had something to say on this. Some thought initiation was "childish," "so much bunk", or "useless". Several suggested that more originality was called for.
  
-Georgia Antoinaides said that she hadn't minded being initiated a bit -- it was quite all right. Don Matthews and Brian Anderson referred to the difficulties of the reunion committee and the lack of any suggestions for an appropriate ceremony. Noboby had any improvements to offer, nor did the meeting indicate that the initiation be dropped, as the motion was lost.+Georgia Antoinaides said that she hadn't minded being initiated a bit -- it was quite all right. Don Matthews and Brian Anderson referred to the difficulties of the reunion committee and the lack of any suggestions for an appropriate ceremony. Nobody had any improvements to offer, nor did the meeting indicate that the initiation be dropped, as the motion was lost.
  
 The meeting closed with a dissertation by Allan Hardie on the virtues of the Wilkinson Valley as a site for a ski hut (or lodge) and on the mispronunciation of the word "ski" by one who should have known better. The meeting closed with a dissertation by Allan Hardie on the virtues of the Wilkinson Valley as a site for a ski hut (or lodge) and on the mispronunciation of the word "ski" by one who should have known better.
  
-Overheard in the Church at Geof and Grace's Wedding: "Is that veally Stitt?" in tones of unbelieving surprise. And, sure enough, there was the Best Man attired impeccably in the smartest of suits, complete with button-hole flower and with not a hair on his head out cif its appointed place - you could have mistaken him easily for the Smart-Young-Man-About-TownAt the reception, however, Pete shed his veneer when he got up to speak - "The Bride and Groom, ladies and gentleman, SLOBS and Dung Khan, ---", (PS. The reception was informal and had a very strong bushwalking flavour.)+Overheard in the Church at Geof and Grace's Wedding: "Is that really Stitt?" in tones of unbelieving surprise. And, sure enough, there was the Best Man attired impeccably in the smartest of suits, complete with button-hole flower and with not a hair on his head out of its appointed place - you could have mistaken him easily for the Smart-Young-Man-About-TownAt the reception, however, Pete shed his veneer when he got up to speak - "The Bride and Groom, ladies and gentleman, SLOBS and Dung Khan, ---", (PS. The reception was informal and had a very strong bushwalking flavour.)
  
 ===== Back of the Castle ===== ===== Back of the Castle =====
Line 59: Line 54:
 by Alex Colley by Alex Colley
  
-Between the Upper Clyde River and the Nowra-Braidwood road there lies some of the wierdest and most fascinating country that I know. It is not the roughest country in the world, nor even in New South Wales, but it is some of the most difficult to find your way in. This is partly because of the lack of maps. An un-contoured, inch-to-the-mile military map takes you about 12 miles south of the road, and in the clear weather, when you can see the conformation of the landscape, is a good guide. But south of this there are no maps except a 4 mile to the inch one which is almost useless where cliffs abound a 1939 sketch map of the Clyde River by Herb Freeman, and a tracing by Ken Angel, which I found in the forgotton recesses of our map' cabinet.+Between the Upper Clyde River and the Nowra-Braidwood road there lies some of the weirdest and most fascinating country that I know. It is not the roughest country in the world, nor even in New South Wales, but it is some of the most difficult to find your way in. This is partly because of the lack of maps. An un-contoured, inch-to-the-mile military map takes you about 12 miles south of the road, and in the clear weather, when you can see the conformation of the landscape, is a good guide. But south of this there are no maps except a 4 mile to the inch one which is almost useless where cliffs abound a 1939 sketch map of the Clyde River by Herb Freeman, and a tracing by Ken Angel, which I found in the forgotten recesses of our map' cabinet.
  
 This latter is, I believe, traced from an aerial survey but it includes only a small corner of the Castle country. This latter is, I believe, traced from an aerial survey but it includes only a small corner of the Castle country.
Line 65: Line 60:
 I have done my best in the accompanying sketch (traced by Betty Sisley) to piece together some of these fragments and add my own un-measured observations. The result is inaccurate but may help readers to follow the narrative. I have done my best in the accompanying sketch (traced by Betty Sisley) to piece together some of these fragments and add my own un-measured observations. The result is inaccurate but may help readers to follow the narrative.
  
-To the difficulty of being virtually unmapped is added the unusual geology of the country. Though unable to give a scientific description I can at least tell what I could see. Towards the Clyde there is a hard conglomerate sandstone cap some 500 feet deep (the top of the Castle) rising to nearly 3000 feet above sea level. About 500 feet below this is another band of conglomerate, which, in the Upper Clyde, seems to divide into two layers. Thus in the deeper levels there are three distinct layers of cliffs. Only the Clyde and Yadbora, Creeks have cut through the two bands of conglomerate. Towards the West the sandstone gives way to much harder rock. The Endrick and Corang and their tributaries, flowing to the Shoalhaven have cut through the top layer of conglomerate in their upper reaches, leaving isolated conglomerate table-tops standing Some 500 feet above the valley floor.+To the difficulty of being virtually unmapped is added the unusual geology of the country. Though unable to give a scientific description I can at least tell what I could see. Towards the Clyde there is a hard conglomerate sandstone cap some 500 feet deep (the top of the Castle) rising to nearly 3000 feet above sea level. About 500 feet below this is another band of conglomerate, which, in the Upper Clyde, seems to divide into two layers. Thus in the deeper levels there are three distinct layers of cliffs. Only the Clyde and Yadboro Creeks have cut through the two bands of conglomerate. Towards the West the sandstone gives way to much harder rock. The Endrick and Corang and their tributaries, flowing to the Shoalhaven have cut through the top layer of conglomerate in their upper reaches, leaving isolated conglomerate table-tops standing Some 500 feet above the valley floor. 
 Towards the West they have cut into the second layer, which rises slightly and weathers to a rounded shape. The hard rock to the West has prevented deep erosion, leaving shallow wide valleys in the sandstone country. If you are a grazier and know the country, it is easy to ride a horse between the convex rock surfaces and the tabletops. But for a walker without a map it becomes a kind of maze. Following. the ridges, as we do in the Blue Mountains, isn't possible because you can't pick them, and if you could they are often nothihg more than a series of rock platforms. Add to this the thick mists born of the sea breezes, and navigation is not easy. Towards the West they have cut into the second layer, which rises slightly and weathers to a rounded shape. The hard rock to the West has prevented deep erosion, leaving shallow wide valleys in the sandstone country. If you are a grazier and know the country, it is easy to ride a horse between the convex rock surfaces and the tabletops. But for a walker without a map it becomes a kind of maze. Following. the ridges, as we do in the Blue Mountains, isn't possible because you can't pick them, and if you could they are often nothihg more than a series of rock platforms. Add to this the thick mists born of the sea breezes, and navigation is not easy.
  
-I have been on three previous trips in this country, on two of which we tried to reach the Castle from the back. We never got more than two or three miles beyond the timber track to "The Vines" and could only guess where the Castle was.  On one memorable King's Birthday weekend twenty S.D.W.'s, including some of our best map-readers, spent a whole day in bitterly cold, wind-driven mist and rain, finding our way off a plateau about 2 miles across and 400 feet above the valley floor. When, therefore, we decided to do a trip down there at Easter and Frank Leyden said "Let's go to the Castle", I replied "We'll be darned lucky if we even see the Castle!" How right I was!+I have been on three previous trips in this country, on two of which we tried to reach the Castle from the back. We never got more than two or three miles beyond the timber track to "The Vines" and could only guess where the Castle was.  On one memorable King's Birthday weekend twenty S.B.W.'s, including some of our best map-readers, spent a whole day in bitterly cold, wind-driven mist and rain, finding our way off a plateau about 2 miles across and 400 feet above the valley floor. When, therefore, we decided to do a trip down there at Easter and Frank Leyden said "Let's go to the Castle", I replied "We'll be darned lucky if we even see the Castle!" How right I was!
  
 Our Easter party - Frank Leyden, Bill Cosgrove, John Scott, Frank Barlow and I, got off almost according to plan on Thursday night, our schedule delayed only by the chronic failure of the Railways Commissioner to run Easter trains to the South Coast on time. By 11.30 we were camping amongst the inevitable broken glass, tins and papers at Tianjara Creek. Next morning we drove on to a point just beyond the Jerricknorra River, Here we hid the Land Rover in the bush on top of a slope out of sight of the road, cleared a small fire-break round it, and by 10.30 were on our way. Our Easter party - Frank Leyden, Bill Cosgrove, John Scott, Frank Barlow and I, got off almost according to plan on Thursday night, our schedule delayed only by the chronic failure of the Railways Commissioner to run Easter trains to the South Coast on time. By 11.30 we were camping amongst the inevitable broken glass, tins and papers at Tianjara Creek. Next morning we drove on to a point just beyond the Jerricknorra River, Here we hid the Land Rover in the bush on top of a slope out of sight of the road, cleared a small fire-break round it, and by 10.30 were on our way.
Line 80: Line 76:
 Our attention soon focussed on our route to the East. Some six miles along the edge of the Yadboro escarpment, just beyond, and possibly joined by high ground to a treeless hill, rose a long slab of the conglomerate layer. To the North of the escarpment was a wide shallow valley - the upper Corang or a tributary. Rather than risk a night on the dry, stony, treeless escarpment, we decided to make for it. Though less than 500 feet below us, there was a rock face to negotiate, and in these parts the rock-faces have a way of curving round and down to the vertical. It is easy to pick a way up from below, but only trial and error will find a way down from the top. On the second try we found a way down the rocks easy enough for the sneaker wearers, but requiring caution by the hobnailers. Our wide valley gave us some shelter from the cold westerly. Its southern slopes were treeless and the upper portion convex surfaces of bare rock. Lower down parallel bands of vegation followed the strata, and near the bottom parallel bands of shrubs looked like hedges. Our attention soon focussed on our route to the East. Some six miles along the edge of the Yadboro escarpment, just beyond, and possibly joined by high ground to a treeless hill, rose a long slab of the conglomerate layer. To the North of the escarpment was a wide shallow valley - the upper Corang or a tributary. Rather than risk a night on the dry, stony, treeless escarpment, we decided to make for it. Though less than 500 feet below us, there was a rock face to negotiate, and in these parts the rock-faces have a way of curving round and down to the vertical. It is easy to pick a way up from below, but only trial and error will find a way down from the top. On the second try we found a way down the rocks easy enough for the sneaker wearers, but requiring caution by the hobnailers. Our wide valley gave us some shelter from the cold westerly. Its southern slopes were treeless and the upper portion convex surfaces of bare rock. Lower down parallel bands of vegation followed the strata, and near the bottom parallel bands of shrubs looked like hedges.
  
-Next morning we struck a happy compromise between the bee-liners, the-ridge-walkers and the valley-followers, and by 10.30 were within half a mile of our table top - a smooth vertical slab 300 feet or more high and a mile long. There was broken rock at the northern end and this looked like the only possible access to the top. We debated whether we would make straight for the broken rock, over the little gully below us but decided to play safe and head it. How glad we were when we looked through it from its source a quarter of an hour later and saw the cliffs on either side! Soon we were at the bottom of the cliff face and climbing up'a fissure, Half way up we took to the rock- +Next morning we struck a happy compromise between the bee-liners, the-ridge-walkers and the valley-followers, and by 10.30 were within half a mile of our table top - a smooth vertical slab 300 feet or more high and a mile long. There was broken rock at the northern end and this looked like the only possible access to the top. We debated whether we would make straight for the broken rock, over the little gully below us but decided to play safe and head it. How glad we were when we looked through it from its source a quarter of an hour later and saw the cliffs on either side! Soon we were at the bottom of the cliff face and climbing up'a fissure, Half way up we took to the rock- that rounded conglomerate - but were turned back by a vertical slab. So we followed the fissure, which runs right across the table-top, to its highest point, where we had lunch, and afterwards climbed to the top without much difficulty. But for all we knew this was the only way up and we had to be sure we could find it again from above. Compasses were out, formations aligned, arrows drawn and breakfast food packets affixed to sticks.
-that rounded conglomerate - but were turned back by a vertical slab. So we followed the fissure, which runs right across the table-top, to its highest point, where we had lunch, and afterwards climbed to the top without much difficulty. But for all we knew this was the only +
-way up and we had to be sure we could find it again from above. Compasses were out, formations aligned, arrows drawns and breakfast +
-food packets affixed to sticks.+
  
-From the top we saw the most fantastic rock formation it has been my lot to look upon. I have seen photographs of the valley in the Barklay Tablelands called the "Ruined City" and this was similar except that it was on the mountaintop instead of in the valley. The horizontal strata has been weathered into great blocks some of which resemble +From the top we saw the most fantastic rock formation it has been my lot to look upon. I have seen photographs of the valley in the Barklay Tablelands called the "Ruined City" and this was similar except that it was on the mountaintop instead of in the valley. The horizontal strata has been weathered into great blocks some of which resemble multi-floored buildings along streets. But others are crevassed and buttressed and taper towards the top like steep, flat-topped pyramids,  Ray Kirkby, who has also seen them, likens them to pagodas. They reminded me of the ruins of ancient Mesopotamian cities. A certain local character known as "the galloping Major" - a soldier of World War 1, has named many of them after Egyptian ruins.
-multi-floored buildings along streets. But others are crevassed and buttressed and taper towards the top like steep, flat-topped pyramids,  Ray Kirkby, who has also seen them, likens them to pagodas. They reminded me of the ruins of ancient Mesopotamian cities. A certain local character known as "the galloping Major" - a soldier of World War 1, has named many of them after Egyptian ruins.+
  
-Once on top we set off with light hearts to walk to the southern +Once on top we set off with light hearts to walk to the southern face where the view would be magnificent. But in 10 minutes the ground fell away before us into a great rock-girt fissure invisible from our previous viewpoints. We followed the fissure to its shallowest point, where it was about 40 feet deep, but the convex rock face became vertical a good 20 feet from the bottom, holds were precarious, and belay points for our short length of sash cord non-existent. There was a crack, but one could look down through it vertically to the bottom, The rubber-shod ones tried here and there. The wall might be descended but not by five non-rock climbers. So we shouldered our packs, said "Oh well, its been good to get this far" and started back. But wait - the crack was impossible, but I must at least wriggle down a few feet. 
-face where the view would be magnificent. But in 10 minutes the ground +It was just possible to worm through, using a wedged-in rock as a foothold, drop to a ledge, then down a steep little bank to another ledge and to the bottom, But what about the other side? It scarcely took a minute to get up there and wave to the others not fifty yards away who didn't believe it till they saw me.
-fell away before us into a great rock-girt fissure invisible from our previous viewpoints. We followed the fissure to its shallowest point, +
-where it was about 40 feet deep, but the convex rock face became +
-vertical a good 20 feet from the bottom, holds were precarious, and belay points for our short length of sash cord non-existent. There was a crack, but one could look down through it vertically to the bottom, +
-The rubber-shod ones tried here and there. The wall might be descended but not by five non-rock climbers. So we shouldered our packs, said +
-"Oh well, its been good to get this far" and started back. But wait - +
-the crack was impossible, but I must at least wriggle down a few feet. +
-It was just possible to worm through, using a wedged-in rock as a +
-foothold, drop to a ledge, then down a steep little bank to another ledge and to the bottom, But what about the other side? It scarcely took a minute to get up there and wave to the others not fifty yards away who didn't believe it till they saw me.+
  
-In a few minutes we were all down, standing in scrub thick enough to stop a bandicoot. Thissuggested was the spot to camp and to my surprise everyone agreed. But first, water. So we divided into two parties each to go in opposite directions for five minutes. One party came to the cliff-edge, the other found waterand so we left our packs and set out for the southern edge.+In a few minutes we were all down, standing in scrub thick enough to stop a bandicoot. This suggested was the spot to camp and to my surprise everyone agreed. But first, water. So we divided into two parties each to go in opposite directions for five minutes. One party came to the cliff-edge, the other found waterand so we left our packs and set out for the southern edge.
  
-It was all we hoped and more. A mile to the East was the Castle and between our platform and it two others - huge buttressed slabs. The Castle from here is a great block, half a mile long and some 500.ft. high, set on top of a treeless mountain which rises above the lower cliff face. In fact it is only a remnant of the upper strata. In a million years it will be another Pigeon House. In two million years another "Peak". The afternoon sun high-lighted the cliff faces and threw the shadow of our own mountain top across them. As we looked Frank Barlow picked out a white speck which appeared for a few seconds - on the northern approach.. Along the long stretch of coastline he identified many of. the landmarks he had used as a yachtsman but never before seen from this angle. The Yadbora Valley, Currockbilly and Budawang were, to our disgust, obscured by the smoke of fires lit by a grazier at the foot of Wog Wog mountain.+It was all we hoped and more. A mile to the East was the Castle and between our platform and it two others - huge buttressed slabs. The Castle from here is a great block, half a mile long and some 500.ft. high, set on top of a treeless mountain which rises above the lower cliff face. In fact it is only a remnant of the upper strata. In a million years it will be another Pigeon House. In two million years another "Peak". The afternoon sun high-lighted the cliff faces and threw the shadow of our own mountain top across them. As we looked Frank Barlow picked out a white speck which appeared for a few seconds - on the northern approach. Along the long stretch of coastline he identified many of. the landmarks he had used as a yachtsman but never before seen from this angle. The Yadbora Valley, Currockbilly and Budawang were, to our disgust, obscured by the smoke of fires lit by a grazier at the foot of Wog Wog mountain.
  
 For perhaps an hour we drank in the scene, then back to our fissure to clear, without benefit of axe or bulldozer, enough space to lie down in. In fact we had a most comfortable night, protected by scrub and rock faces from the cold wind that blew above. For perhaps an hour we drank in the scene, then back to our fissure to clear, without benefit of axe or bulldozer, enough space to lie down in. In fact we had a most comfortable night, protected by scrub and rock faces from the cold wind that blew above.
Line 107: Line 91:
 On the way back we decided to follow the southern escarpment instead of the upper Corang in the hope of getting out to Some spectacular looking vantage points. But our enemy with the matches was too busy. Even then fire crept up the Peak, and as we neared it flames roared up the valley below us, forcing us to return to our old route. Pastorally, this country is worthless. Little grass grows on it - mainly reeds, sedges and hardy shrubs. The few cattle pastured on it probably lose condition. But a fire is followed by edible green shoots, a few cattle may survive, a few pounds may be made; and so beauty is destroyed and the scant soil bared to erosion. In this winter of hard cold and drought the fire lighter will get what he deserves - a bare, charred waste - but the poor cattle and native animals will starve. On the way back we decided to follow the southern escarpment instead of the upper Corang in the hope of getting out to Some spectacular looking vantage points. But our enemy with the matches was too busy. Even then fire crept up the Peak, and as we neared it flames roared up the valley below us, forcing us to return to our old route. Pastorally, this country is worthless. Little grass grows on it - mainly reeds, sedges and hardy shrubs. The few cattle pastured on it probably lose condition. But a fire is followed by edible green shoots, a few cattle may survive, a few pounds may be made; and so beauty is destroyed and the scant soil bared to erosion. In this winter of hard cold and drought the fire lighter will get what he deserves - a bare, charred waste - but the poor cattle and native animals will starve.
  
-That evening at 4.30 p.m. we found ourselves again on Everest with +That evening at 4.30 p.m. we found ourselves again on Everest with no camp site in view. Bad planning this. We should have started earlier or picked it before we set off. Talking fast and risking my reputation as a water-diviner, I persuaded everyone to deviate to a nearby fissure where water must beIf there wasn't, or if we couldn't get down, it was dark and we were high and dry. Besides, it meant going backwards. So I relented and sped on towards those abominable little rocky gullies. The top of the Lhotse ice fall (camp V11 1953) looked flat and there should be water but if there wasn't it was dark. So on we blundered to the edge of Nuptse.
-no camp site in view. Bad planning this. We should have started earlier or picked it before we set off. Talking fast and risking my reputation as a water-diviner, I persuaded everyone to deviate to a nearby fissure where water must beIf there wasn't, or if we couldn't get down, it was dark and we were high and dry. Besides, it meant going backwards. So I relented and sped on towards those abominable little rocky gullies. The top of the Lhotse ice fall (camp V11 1953) looked flat and there should be water //but// if there wasn't it was dark. So on we blundered to the edge of Nuptse+
  
-"Where" asked Frank Leyden, "will we camp?" "There", I replied, indicating in the fading light a level spot on a ridge below. "Is there water?" "Yes, if we go down far enough," So we went. It was level but paved with triangular 'stones. Luckily the water was only a hundred yards and 50 feet below. The moving of rocks served only to uncover similar ones below. And so the five unwise Bush Walkers, who were old enough to know better, got the camp-site they deserved.+"Where" asked Frank Leyden, "will we camp?" "There", I replied, indicating in the fading light a level spot on a ridge below. "Is there water?" "Yes, if we go down far enough," So we went. It was level but paved with triangular stones. Luckily the water was only a hundred yards and 50 feet below. The moving of rocks served only to uncover similar ones below. And so the five unwise Bush Walkers, who were old enough to know better, got the camp-site they deserved.
  
 Next morning we got on to our line again - the two Franks, each with compass in hand, sometimes diverging, but always in debating range, the rest of us pursuing a middle course. Over the rocky scree gullies, through the slip rails, along the fence, down a hill, across the Jerricknorra, up a hill, down a hill, and so, like homing pigeons, to the welcoming gleam of the Land Rover's headlights, as they reflected the sunlight through the trees. It was un-charred. It went, and the trip back to Kiama was as pleasant as motoring can be over a dirt road on hard seats and hard springs. Next morning we got on to our line again - the two Franks, each with compass in hand, sometimes diverging, but always in debating range, the rest of us pursuing a middle course. Over the rocky scree gullies, through the slip rails, along the fence, down a hill, across the Jerricknorra, up a hill, down a hill, and so, like homing pigeons, to the welcoming gleam of the Land Rover's headlights, as they reflected the sunlight through the trees. It was un-charred. It went, and the trip back to Kiama was as pleasant as motoring can be over a dirt road on hard seats and hard springs.
Line 116: Line 99:
 ---- ----
  
-Now about the latest Mara --- (sorry, long walk) fiasco. The +Now about the latest Mara --- (sorry, long walk) fiasco. The four "ninety miler" turncoats were seen at Blackheath Ck - Cox Junction on the Saturday afternoon - come, come Snow, better spill the beans or people will be saying you didn't know which way the Cox was flowing! 
-four "ninety miler" turncoats were seen at Blackheath Ck - Cox Junction +
-on the Saturday afternoon - come, come Snow, better spill the beans or people will be saying you didn't know which way the Cox was flowing!+
  
 ===== Confessions of an Admiral ===== ===== Confessions of an Admiral =====
  
-Sydney 28.8.57.+Sydney  28.8.57.
  
 Dear Mr. Peter Stitt, Dear Mr. Peter Stitt,
Line 128: Line 110:
 No doubt you will remember me, with Miss Price and Messrs Abbott and Round accompanied you on your official Boat Race to Wiseman's Ferry several weeks ago. Actually my use of the word "accompanied" is possibly a little incorrect as we were nine hours behind your arrival at Wisemans. No doubt you will remember me, with Miss Price and Messrs Abbott and Round accompanied you on your official Boat Race to Wiseman's Ferry several weeks ago. Actually my use of the word "accompanied" is possibly a little incorrect as we were nine hours behind your arrival at Wisemans.
  
-As leader of the trip you naturally asked, in a somewhat gloating manner, may I add, what caused our delay? Well, due to the circumstances that prevailed at the time, we felt it would be better to fabricate a story, rather than tell the truth. However, now we've decided the truth should be told, mainly to stop your continued questioning and thus end your frantic search for the facts that led to the "Blunder in Broken Bay",+As leader of the trip you naturally asked, in a somewhat gloating manner, may I add, what caused our delay? Well, due to the circumstances that prevailed at the time, we felt it would be better to fabricate a story, rather than tell the truth. However, now we've decided the truth should be told, mainly to stop your continued questioning and thus end your frantic search for the facts that led to the "Blunder in Broken Bay".
  
 Of course, Peter, you realise that seven of those nine hours were spent assisting Mr. Hooper and his crew from the Barr Estate Wharf to Wisemans Ferry. Nevertheless it is the other two hours (which spelt doom for us as far as winning the race was concerned), I think you will be vitally interested in. So here is our story, a strange sea story, of four courageous clots who, if put in the Archibald Fountain, in a boat, would still manage to get themselves lost. Of course, Peter, you realise that seven of those nine hours were spent assisting Mr. Hooper and his crew from the Barr Estate Wharf to Wisemans Ferry. Nevertheless it is the other two hours (which spelt doom for us as far as winning the race was concerned), I think you will be vitally interested in. So here is our story, a strange sea story, of four courageous clots who, if put in the Archibald Fountain, in a boat, would still manage to get themselves lost.
  
-Both Alans had their eyes and ears glued to the running engine, waiting to correct any of its peculiar eccentricities. Nothing was to go wrong. It was vital we try and take the lead up Cowan Creek if we wished to build up a workable lead. So as we waited for your call to start we gathered together our maps, torches, tide charts and all other information that would help us win this important race,+Both Alans had their eyes and ears glued to the running engine, waiting to correct any of its peculiar eccentricities. Nothing was to go wrong. It was vital we try and take the lead up Cowan Creek if we wished to build up a workable lead. So as we waited for your call to start we gathered together our maps, torches, tide charts and all other information that would help us win this important race.
  
-However, your call didn't come as Mr. Hooper surreptitiously crept into midstream causing a mass panic to get away amongst the other four boatsIn this mad rat race start, we managed to wangle into third+However, your call didn't come as Mr. Hooper surreptitiously crept into midstream causing a mass panic to get away amongst the other four boatsIn this mad rat race start, we managed to wangle into third
 place which wasn't too bad considering the reigning confusion. But our advantage was nearly lost when right across our bow appeared a 40 ft, cruiser, With a wild saving action we steered towards the stern place which wasn't too bad considering the reigning confusion. But our advantage was nearly lost when right across our bow appeared a 40 ft, cruiser, With a wild saving action we steered towards the stern
 of the cruiser hoping he would accelerate, thus avoiding a collision. Then to our horror as we swung around we found ourselves on top of Jim Hooper's boat. An inevitable thud followed. Jim's boat turned 90° off course, heading out of apparent control for the bank. of the cruiser hoping he would accelerate, thus avoiding a collision. Then to our horror as we swung around we found ourselves on top of Jim Hooper's boat. An inevitable thud followed. Jim's boat turned 90° off course, heading out of apparent control for the bank.
Line 140: Line 122:
 Alas, here appeared the sadistic side of our natures, as we rubbed our hands with glee because now we were in second position. Alas, here appeared the sadistic side of our natures, as we rubbed our hands with glee because now we were in second position.
  
-Up front, about 100 yards away could be seen the phosphorus trail of Colin's boatWith some luck at cutting corners and also Colin's boat stopping we managed to get to the front,+Up front, about 100 yards away could be seen the phosphorus trail of Colin's boatWith some luck at cutting corners and also Colin's boat stopping we managed to get to the front.
  
 It was about half an hour later when things began to happen. Previously we had agreed to keep all torches off. At all cost, we weren't going to let anyone sponge on our navigation. (Ha Has). So by starlight only we strained our eyes to read the map, keeping one point in our minds - watch out for Jerusalem Bay. It was about half an hour later when things began to happen. Previously we had agreed to keep all torches off. At all cost, we weren't going to let anyone sponge on our navigation. (Ha Has). So by starlight only we strained our eyes to read the map, keeping one point in our minds - watch out for Jerusalem Bay.
  
-Soon on our port side appeared three lights. These, we thoughtwere the lights above Rhode's Boatshed. As we conferred together at the blunt end of the boat, on the prospects of this being Jerusalem Bay+Soon on our port side appeared three lights. These, we thought were the lights above Rhode's Boatshed. As we conferred together at the blunt end of the boat, on the prospects of this being Jerusalem Bay
 our hearts suddenly leapt into our mouths and a sickly feeling developed in our stomachs. An expensive torch which John Thornwaite had lent us slipped into the water. our hearts suddenly leapt into our mouths and a sickly feeling developed in our stomachs. An expensive torch which John Thornwaite had lent us slipped into the water.
  
Line 154: Line 136:
  
 With mad haste I began orientating the map with my useless compass. One look over my shoulder was enough to tell me where we were - Patonga. With mad haste I began orientating the map with my useless compass. One look over my shoulder was enough to tell me where we were - Patonga.
-Yours, for more daylight boating, 
  
 +Yours, for more daylight boating,\\
 Admiral Anderson. Admiral Anderson.
  
 P.S. For those who don't know or are too dull to guess - we came last. P.S. For those who don't know or are too dull to guess - we came last.
 +
 (Is this the full story, Admiral, or are you still holding out? There is a strong rumour that you all went ashore at this unknown place with full intent to enquire from the residents just what town they lived in -- Ed.) (Is this the full story, Admiral, or are you still holding out? There is a strong rumour that you all went ashore at this unknown place with full intent to enquire from the residents just what town they lived in -- Ed.)
  
Line 237: Line 220:
 Thank you, Thank you,
 Brian Anderson (Walks Secretary) Brian Anderson (Walks Secretary)
 +
  
 ===== Your Walking Guide===== ===== Your Walking Guide=====
  
-|October 18-19-20|Narrow Neck - Megalong Area| See Page forLeaders own comments.|+|October 18-19-20|Narrow Neck - Megalong Area| See Page for Leaders own comments.|
 |19-20|Yellow Rock-Grose R.-Vale Lookout| A balanced mixture of easy, medium, rough, creek, river, ridge walking. An approximate three mile dirt road walk involved from Yellow Rock to the headwaters of Blue Gum Swamp Ck. Medium walking type climbs up onto Yellow Rock and out of Blue Gum Swamp Ck. Possibly a scratchy scramble up onto Vale Lookout. Views from Yellow Rock of the Nepean and Grose River from Vale Lookout are worthwhile. Good swimming along lower Grose River. Bus or Taxi transport available from Kurrajong to Richmond. A General Transfer letter for rail tickets will be arranged by leader. Rail fare 10/5 return. Bus or taxi 3/- to 5/-. N.B. Omit Mt. Bowen from particulars of Walk.| |19-20|Yellow Rock-Grose R.-Vale Lookout| A balanced mixture of easy, medium, rough, creek, river, ridge walking. An approximate three mile dirt road walk involved from Yellow Rock to the headwaters of Blue Gum Swamp Ck. Medium walking type climbs up onto Yellow Rock and out of Blue Gum Swamp Ck. Possibly a scratchy scramble up onto Vale Lookout. Views from Yellow Rock of the Nepean and Grose River from Vale Lookout are worthwhile. Good swimming along lower Grose River. Bus or Taxi transport available from Kurrajong to Richmond. A General Transfer letter for rail tickets will be arranged by leader. Rail fare 10/5 return. Bus or taxi 3/- to 5/-. N.B. Omit Mt. Bowen from particulars of Walk.|
 |20|Marley Pool-Winfred Falls area|Walking is very easy to medium along bush tracks and roads. The falls and pool along this walk present a very pleasing pibture of the Royal National Park. Wildflowers should still be in bloom. The 8.59 a.m. electric train from Central catches the 10.5 a.m. ferry to Bundeena. Combined train and ferry fare 6/6.| |20|Marley Pool-Winfred Falls area|Walking is very easy to medium along bush tracks and roads. The falls and pool along this walk present a very pleasing pibture of the Royal National Park. Wildflowers should still be in bloom. The 8.59 a.m. electric train from Central catches the 10.5 a.m. ferry to Bundeena. Combined train and ferry fare 6/6.|
-|25-26-27|Mini Mini Range - Six Foot Track area|This is a very +|25-26-27|Mini Mini Range - Six Foot Track area|This is a very pleasant medium test walk, From Jenolan Caves Road to Gibraltar Rocks the way is a combination of timber roads and tracks with a little scrub bashing as you approach the end of the Mini Mini Range. Very good views of the Megalong Valley and Upper Cox from Gibraltar Rocks. A graded track from the Rocks to Katoomba. The track itself passes through the picturesque Gibralter Ck.-Cox River-Megalong area. Climb out of Megalong is approx. 1500 ft., but is easily overcome by a tourist track. For this time of year the Cox River offers many good swimming holes. Train fare 24/9. Car approx. 15/- to 20/-| 
-pleasant medium test walk, From Jenolan Caves Road to Gibralter Rocks the way is a combination of timber roads and tracks with a little scrub bashing as you approach the end of the Mini Mini Range. Very good views of the Megalong Valley and Upper Cox from Gibralter Rocks. A graded track from the Rocks to Katoomba. The track itself passes through the picturesque Gibralter Ck.-Cox River-Megalong area. Climb out of Megalong is approx. 1500 ft., but is easily overcome by a tourist track. For this time of year the Cox River offers many good swimming holes. Train fare 24/9. Car approx. 15/- to 20/-.+|October 26-27|Carrington and Minnamurra Falls area| Don't forget your camera on this trip as both falls and coastal views give the photographer some decent subject matter. Walking is easy to medium. No major climbs - only one descent. The route intended is a mixture of tracks and bush roads over flat upland swamps common to this area. Permission to use Robertson tickets from Kiama will be arranged by leader. Return fare 26/3|
-|October 26-27|Carrington and Minnamurra Falls area| Don't forget your +
-camera on this trip as both falls and coastal views give the photographer some decent subject matter. Walking is easy to medium. No major climbs - only one descent. The route intended is a mixture of tracks and bush roads over flat upland swamps common to this area. Permission to use Robertson+
-tickets from Kiama will be arranged by leader. Return fare 26/3+
 |November 1-2-3|Fraser Park|An easy two mile stroll - swimming, fishing (with spears of course), sunbathing etc. In other words a first class spine-bash. Train fare 20/5. Bus from approx 5/-.| |November 1-2-3|Fraser Park|An easy two mile stroll - swimming, fishing (with spears of course), sunbathing etc. In other words a first class spine-bash. Train fare 20/5. Bus from approx 5/-.|
-|2-3| Era - Instructional Weekend| Whether walking in from the lookout or Garie Beach, the way is an easy 1/2 to 1 mile walk. Ideal camp spots. Good swimming in surf and also small rock pool. For those who like to potter around rocks, this is an ideal location. From Waterfall bus or taxi transport is available. Check with leader re bus times on Saturday to Garie Beach. Approx. combined bus and train fare+|2-3| Era - Instructional Weekend| Whether walking in from the lookout or Garie Beach, the way is an easy 1/2 to 1 mile walk. Ideal camp spots. Good swimming in surf and also small rock pool. For those who like to potter around rocks, this is an ideal location. From Waterfall bus or taxi transport is available. Check with leader re bus times on Saturday to Garie Beach. Approx. combined bus and train fare|
 |8-9-10| Camberwarra Dugong Ck. area| From Camberwarra Lookout and Upper Eugong Ck. views of this part of the South Coat are extensive. Good area for colour photography. The going is mainly medium with a few rough spots. The rough areas are mostly belts of rain forest you have to pass through. Good chance of a feed of fruit from the few deserted farms along the track. Return fare 31/6 plus car to Camberwarra 6/- to 10/-.| |8-9-10| Camberwarra Dugong Ck. area| From Camberwarra Lookout and Upper Eugong Ck. views of this part of the South Coat are extensive. Good area for colour photography. The going is mainly medium with a few rough spots. The rough areas are mostly belts of rain forest you have to pass through. Good chance of a feed of fruit from the few deserted farms along the track. Return fare 31/6 plus car to Camberwarra 6/- to 10/-.|
 |9-10 | Mt. Solitary| Best described as easy-medium, hard going. The hard going is the pull up onto Solitary. The easy is the track from the Ruined Castle to the Scenic Railway or Stairway and the medium parts being the road into Kedumba Ok. and the track along Solitary. If Scenic Railway isn't used for climb out of valley the other way out is via a tourist track. From Solitary are good views across to Katoomba and down Kedumba Ck. As this will probably be in warm sunny weather don't forget to take your hat. Train fare 22/2. Taxi to Queen Victoria Homes, 15/- for five bods.| |9-10 | Mt. Solitary| Best described as easy-medium, hard going. The hard going is the pull up onto Solitary. The easy is the track from the Ruined Castle to the Scenic Railway or Stairway and the medium parts being the road into Kedumba Ok. and the track along Solitary. If Scenic Railway isn't used for climb out of valley the other way out is via a tourist track. From Solitary are good views across to Katoomba and down Kedumba Ck. As this will probably be in warm sunny weather don't forget to take your hat. Train fare 22/2. Taxi to Queen Victoria Homes, 15/- for five bods.|
Line 318: Line 299:
 by Dot Butler. by Dot Butler.
  
-The Almer hut is situated at the head of the Almer Glacier which makes a steep drop to join the Franz Josef Glacier about a thousand feet below. From a rocky platform a short way in front of the hut one gets an enormous sense of spaciousness. Away to the west extends a long horizon bounding the mist blue sea. In the fading twilight the slopes of the low hills are steeped in colours rich as a satin bower bird's wing. Back towards the east rises the snowy Main Range swathed in the lacy mist of a summer evening, and the wide snow basin of the Franz Josef neve through which we had come that afternoon. But our eyes looked+The Almer hut is situated at the head of the Almer Glacier which makes a steep drop to join the Franz Josef Glacier about a thousand feet below. From a rocky platform a short way in front of the hut one gets an enormous sense of spaciousness. Away to the west extends a long horizon bounding the mist blue sea. In the fading twilight the slopes of the low hills are steeped in colours rich as a satin bower bird's wing. Back towards the east rises the snowy Main Range swathed in the lacy mist of a summer evening, and the wide snow basin of the Franz Josef neve through which we had come that afternoon. But our eyes looked
 down to where tomorrow's route would take us, and there below lying wickedly expectant, like a white dragon exuding cold from its wrinkled scales, we saw the Franz Josef glacier waiting. "Come on down," we down to where tomorrow's route would take us, and there below lying wickedly expectant, like a white dragon exuding cold from its wrinkled scales, we saw the Franz Josef glacier waiting. "Come on down," we
 heard it calling. "Come down, you four little crawling creatures and see what happens." heard it calling. "Come down, you four little crawling creatures and see what happens."
  
-The morning of 24th January dawned fine and calm. We weren't due in Christchurch till the afternoon of the 28th to catch our plane back to Sydney. It wouldn't take us two days to get to Christchurch, so it was with a fine sense of leisure that we dawdled around, and didn't set out from the hut till about 9 a.m. We had read in the hut book of a party which did the journey in three hours. We would allow ourselvesat least six hours, which would give us ample time for photographs and lunch and generally playing about.+The morning of 24th January dawned fine and calm. We weren't due in Christchurch till the afternoon of the 28th to catch our plane back to Sydney. It wouldn't take us two days to get to Christchurch, so it was with a fine sense of leisure that we dawdled around, and didn't set out from the hut till about 9 a.m. We had read in the hut book of a party which did the journey in three hours. We would allow ourselves at least six hours, which would give us ample time for photographs and lunch and generally playing about.
  
-We got through the lateral broken ice and on to the glacier very successfully, and pottered along till about midday when we had lunch. There were lots and lots of cracks now, and as we got into the ice-fall area they got deeper and deeper and more maze-like, and, to cut a long story short, after spending three or four hours of trial and error we ended up again at our lunch spot. From the hut book we knew that a party had gone up recently, and from below the obvious route would have been up the centre of the glacier, but when we tried to get over to the centre we encountered a vast and melancholy ruin of dirty yellow rotten pinnacles and we let ourselves be deterred by them, although, as we afterwards found out, this was the correct route. We looked at the time and held a conference and decided that as we had two or three days up our sleeve anyway we might as well go back to Almer hut and try a different route in the morning. So about 5 o'clock there we are on the return run, expecting to be off the glacier and back to the hut before dark at 9 o'clock. However, about 8 p.m. down came a dense fog, and in the uncertain light it took us a long time picking our way amongst the maze of crevasses. Nor could we be sure of the location of the Almer Glacier on our left - our landmark for getting off the Franz to ascend to the hut. At 10 o'clock we were still creeping along in the fog and getting a bit tired of the futility of it; it hardly seemed worth while trying to climb up the couple of thousand feet to the hut, reaching it by midnight, just to have to get up by 4 a.m. and start coming down again. Our packs were heavy so we decided to stay where we were, dig some sort of cave shelter, and start moving again in the daylight. We scouted round and found a great overhanging wall of ice and hacked away in relays with our ice axes till midnight hollowing out a shelter sufficient for the four of us to crouch in. It wasn't a very effective hole, but at least the work kept us warm. But by midnight we were alL tired of chopping, and it had begun to snow and the wind blew cold and George and Snow were beginning to wonder apprehensively what they were in for. (Whaka and I had on past occasions spent nights out in blizzards so we knew.)+We got through the lateral broken ice and on to the glacier very successfully, and pottered along till about midday when we had lunch. There were lots and lots of cracks now, and as we got into the ice-fall area they got deeper and deeper and more maze-like, and, to cut a long story short, after spending three or four hours of trial and error we ended up again at our lunch spot. From the hut book we knew that a party had gone up recently, and from below the obvious route would have been up the centre of the glacier, but when we tried to get over to the centre we encountered a vast and melancholy ruin of dirty yellow rotten pinnacles and we let ourselves be deterred by them, although, as we afterwards found out, this was the correct route. We looked at the time and held a conference and decided that as we had two or three days up our sleeve anyway we might as well go back to Almer hut and try a different route in the morning. So about 5 o'clock there we are on the return run, expecting to be off the glacier and back to the hut before dark at 9 o'clock. However, about 8 p.m. down came a dense fog, and in the uncertain light it took us a long time picking our way amongst the maze of crevasses. Nor could we be sure of the location of the Almer Glacier on our left - our landmark for getting off the Franz to ascend to the hut. At 10 o'clock we were still creeping along in the fog and getting a bit tired of the futility of it; it hardly seemed worth while trying to climb up the couple of thousand feet to the hut, reaching it by midnight, just to have to get up by 4 a.m. and start coming down again. Our packs were heavy so we decided to stay where we were, dig some sort of cave shelter, and start moving again in the daylight. We scouted round and found a great overhanging wall of ice and hacked away in relays with our ice axes till midnight hollowing out a shelter sufficient for the four of us to crouch in. It wasn't a very effective hole, but at least the work kept us warm. But by midnight we were all tired of chopping, and it had begun to snow and the wind blew cold and George and Snow were beginning to wonder apprehensively what they were in for. (Whaka and I had on past occasions spent nights out in blizzards so we knew.)
  
 George and Snow took off their boots and got into their sleeping bags and put their feet in their packs and their parkas over the top, and sitting on their boots tried to sleep. George sat partly sheltered by our excavation - it wasn't worth sitting right inside, as we found, because the water dripped in through the ceiling too much - and he says he slept well. He was the only one next morning with anything dry in his possession. Snow sat out on the ice, and the snow built up on his head and shoulders till he looked like a relic from Scott's last base in Antarctica. Whaka didn't have a sleeping bag as he had been sleeping in the hut blankets all the trip, so we wrapped my bag half round his waist and half round mine and pulled our parkas down as best we could over the bulk, then we proceeded to keep ourselves entertained by jumping up and down together on the ice, and singing all the songs we knew and telling each other jokes and funny stories, and laughing like made through the rain and the sleet and the howling wind. By 2 a.m. the laughter was getting a bit hollow and by 3 a.m. it had stopped. George and Snow took off their boots and got into their sleeping bags and put their feet in their packs and their parkas over the top, and sitting on their boots tried to sleep. George sat partly sheltered by our excavation - it wasn't worth sitting right inside, as we found, because the water dripped in through the ceiling too much - and he says he slept well. He was the only one next morning with anything dry in his possession. Snow sat out on the ice, and the snow built up on his head and shoulders till he looked like a relic from Scott's last base in Antarctica. Whaka didn't have a sleeping bag as he had been sleeping in the hut blankets all the trip, so we wrapped my bag half round his waist and half round mine and pulled our parkas down as best we could over the bulk, then we proceeded to keep ourselves entertained by jumping up and down together on the ice, and singing all the songs we knew and telling each other jokes and funny stories, and laughing like made through the rain and the sleet and the howling wind. By 2 a.m. the laughter was getting a bit hollow and by 3 a.m. it had stopped.
  
-Now that our own voices were silent we became creepily aware of the noises around us. The glacier seemed alive and evil and monstrous shaken by inner growlings and hoarse pantings. A desolate wind from nowhere moaned over the icy wastes and fought its way through the ice pinnacles in uncanny gusts and gaspings. It would not have been good to have been alone. Once Snow woke up with a start hearing a hollow booming, soft and muffled and remote - curiously disturbing. "There's a dance band", he said. "I can hear the drums!" It took us a little while to convince him that he wasn't back home with a dance going on up the street.+Now that our own voices were silent we became creepily aware of the noises around us. The glacier seemed alive and evil and monstrous shaken by inner growling and hoarse pantings. A desolate wind from nowhere moaned over the icy wastes and fought its way through the ice pinnacles in uncanny gusts and gaspings. It would not have been good to have been alone. Once Snow woke up with a start hearing a hollow booming, soft and muffled and remote - curiously disturbing. "There's a dance band", he said. "I can hear the drums!" It took us a little while to convince him that he wasn't back home with a dance going on up the street.
  
 "Go back to sleep Snow. It's boulders rumbling down the watercourses under the glacier ice,.."... Doom! Boom-de-Boom: Snow shut his eyes tight to the torture of reality, pulled his sodden sleeping bag around his ears and tried to recapture his dream. "Go back to sleep Snow. It's boulders rumbling down the watercourses under the glacier ice,.."... Doom! Boom-de-Boom: Snow shut his eyes tight to the torture of reality, pulled his sodden sleeping bag around his ears and tried to recapture his dream.
Line 347: Line 328:
 The weather was incredibly still. The sky, softly blue, seemed chastened and contrite after its stormy excess. The Minarets were breath takingly lovely with diaphanous swathed of white mist floating round their lower slopes. The whole of the western side of the Main Range, under its mantle of new snow, radiated tranquility and peace. But the eastern side, from the top of Grahams Saddle down to the Rudolph and then the Tasman, was a scene of complete and incredible wreckage. I have never seen so much destruction following a storm. The whole mountain side was scoured out. The snow couloirs we had climbed up only a few days previously were gouged out to the virgin rock. Huge rock avalanches had ploughed deep and dirty troughs down the mountain side and lay scattered in dark fans away below. As we gingerly climbed down, a whole face of the mountain dropped away in one terrific snow avalanche. The weather was incredibly still. The sky, softly blue, seemed chastened and contrite after its stormy excess. The Minarets were breath takingly lovely with diaphanous swathed of white mist floating round their lower slopes. The whole of the western side of the Main Range, under its mantle of new snow, radiated tranquility and peace. But the eastern side, from the top of Grahams Saddle down to the Rudolph and then the Tasman, was a scene of complete and incredible wreckage. I have never seen so much destruction following a storm. The whole mountain side was scoured out. The snow couloirs we had climbed up only a few days previously were gouged out to the virgin rock. Huge rock avalanches had ploughed deep and dirty troughs down the mountain side and lay scattered in dark fans away below. As we gingerly climbed down, a whole face of the mountain dropped away in one terrific snow avalanche.
  
-Eventually we got down to the Tasman, then, as Whaka had unfortunately sprained his ankle, we sent George and Snow on ahead to tell the Mt. Cook bus driver at Ball hut that we might be about an hour late for the bus back to the Hermitage, and slowly came on our way. George went back with the bus, while Snow and a young Australian guide came back to meet us, and a special bus was sent back for us later (at our expense). We got down to the Hermitage and sent off telegrams and cablegrams to announce the fact that we were overdue and had been weatherbound in a hut for several days, then we went down to the Unwin hut for the night and caught the next day's bus to Christchurch, That evening we saw Whaka off on his boat to Wellington. We slept that night in a local motor camp, and were on the doorstep of the Airways office bright and early next morning to explain why we were three days late and try to get another booking. There was no plane available that day, so we trailed out to Summer beach and slept in a shed in the park, and next day (Feb. 1st.) returned to Sydney. To leave Christchurch at 5 and get to Sydney at 8 (having put our watches back the regulation 2 hours) seemed all wrong. It made New Zealand as close as a train journey to Katoomba. However, it was a long time before the unreality wore off. For many days I found myself thinking I was still in those lovely little green islands with their snowy mountain peaks. For a few years hot dry sunny Australia will fill our thoughts, but one day we will find that strong, sensitive fingers are again rapping at the mind and we needs must leave our shores and go whither the Stranger beckons - back to the high hills, the hard life, the effort and the striving, and the merry companions, all of which stir the soul to a depth and tenderness past the power of words to describe.+Eventually we got down to the Tasman, then, as Whaka had unfortunately sprained his ankle, we sent George and Snow on ahead to tell the Mt. Cook bus driver at Ball hut that we might be about an hour late for the bus back to the Hermitage, and slowly came on our way. George went back with the bus, while Snow and a young Australian guide came back to meet us, and a special bus was sent back for us later (at our expense). We got down to the Hermitage and sent off telegrams and cablegrams to announce the fact that we were overdue and had been weather bound in a hut for several days, then we went down to the Unwin hut for the night and caught the next day's bus to Christchurch, That evening we saw Whaka off on his boat to Wellington. We slept that night in a local motor camp, and were on the doorstep of the Airways office bright and early next morning to explain why we were three days late and try to get another booking. There was no plane available that day, so we trailed out to Summer beach and slept in a shed in the park, and next day (Feb. 1st.) returned to Sydney. To leave Christchurch at 5 and get to Sydney at 8 (having put our watches back the regulation 2 hours) seemed all wrong. It made New Zealand as close as a train journey to Katoomba. However, it was a long time before the unreality wore off. For many days I found myself thinking I was still in those lovely little green islands with their snowy mountain peaks. For a few years hot dry sunny Australia will fill our thoughts, but one day we will find that strong, sensitive fingers are again rapping at the mind and we needs must leave our shores and go whither the stranger beckons - back to the high hills, the hard life, the effort and the striving, and the merry companions, all of which stir the soul to a depth and tenderness past the power of words to describe.
  
 (And so ends what must be one of the most remarkable literary efforts ever to be associated with the "Sydney Bushwalker". Certainly it had length, but Dot's series of articles on the N.Z. adventures had much more than this. From beginning to end she has sustained the highest level of entertainment value with that inimitable style that only Dot could produce. The nicely balanced mixture of scenery, personalities, adventures, incidents, philosophy and reminiscences has earned a wealth of admiration, not only from Club members, but from many right outside the field of bushwalking who have read our Magazine. Our heartiest thanks to you Dot, for a really outstanding series of contributions. -- Editor.) (And so ends what must be one of the most remarkable literary efforts ever to be associated with the "Sydney Bushwalker". Certainly it had length, but Dot's series of articles on the N.Z. adventures had much more than this. From beginning to end she has sustained the highest level of entertainment value with that inimitable style that only Dot could produce. The nicely balanced mixture of scenery, personalities, adventures, incidents, philosophy and reminiscences has earned a wealth of admiration, not only from Club members, but from many right outside the field of bushwalking who have read our Magazine. Our heartiest thanks to you Dot, for a really outstanding series of contributions. -- Editor.)
195710.txt · Last modified: 2018/11/12 14:05 by tyreless

Donate Powered by PHP Valid HTML5 Valid CSS Driven by DokuWiki