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-********s*****
+=====  Northern India.  =====
-Page 4 THE STWEY_BUSHWALKER April, 1974.
-NORTHERN "[OIL by Helen Gray.
+by Helen Gray.
-To begin with, it looked as if all was going well for Frank and me, George and. Owen, the original members of the party, still had no plane booking out of Sydney when we two boarded our direct flight to Delhi. It. seemed like a pleasant diversion when we flew to Melbourne for extra fuel, but our reactions went from surprise to concern to alarm as wsolanded in Bangkok, then Karachi, the. (Teheran temperature 3 Frank in his Tshirt, shorts and sandals, looked a little out of place in the minter snow.) Not to worry a plane was waiting to take us back to Delhi. We ate our third breakfast in a row and settled. back to review the starkly magnificent Iranian landscape.
-Twentythree and a half hours after leaving Sydney, we arrived at. our destination.)
+To begin with, it looked as if all was going well for Frank and me, George and Owen, the original members of the party, still had no plane booking out of Sydney when we two boarded our direct flight to Delhi. It seemed like a pleasant diversion when we flew to Melbourne for extra fuel, but our reactions went from surprise to concern to alarm as we landed in Bangkok, then Karachi, then Tehran. (Teheran temperature -3°, Frank in his T-shirt, shorts and sandals, looked a little out of place in the winter snow.) Not to worry - a plane was waiting to take us back to Delhi. We ate our third breakfast in a row and settled back to review the starkly magnificent Iranian landscape.
- 0000000
-Delhi amaze of narrow streets and miniature uildings. Imagine Rowe Street, Sydney but with vendors and their stalls in front of every building, people lying down to sleep, or squatting to urinate; hundreds more people on the move, together with trishaws, taxis, buses, healthy sacred cattle and living skeletons of dogs; food stalls with unrecognisable food and equally unr. recognisable smells. After nearly a day's
+Twentythree and a half hours after leaving Sydney, we arrived at our destination.
-derings, 90% of the time not knowing even in which di-rection, a man selling bananas provided us with our first meal. (We were to average
-one meal a day for the next few weeks, usually because our days were too
+Delhi - a maze of narrow streets and miniature buildings. Imagine Rowe Street, Sydney but with vendors and their stalls in front of every building, people lying down to sleep, or squatting to urinate; hundreds more people on the move, together with tri-shaws, taxis, buses, healthy sacred cattle and living skeletons of dogs; food stalls with unrecognisable food and equally unrecognisable smells. After nearly a day's wanderings, 90% of the time not knowing even in which direction, a man selling bananas provided us with our first meal. (We were to average one meal a day for the next few weeks, usually because our days were too full to find time for eating.)
-find time for eating.)
-. . . ....
-tp
-r \
----` x ,, 1 i
-full to
-I I
-k".'4.
-\tf
-d4,____ )
-II
--.1)- 'c:
-qs.
-xyl 1:,sts
-\\\
 The ceilings inside Delhi's Red Fort were a photographer's delight.
-Page 5 THE STENEY BUSHWALKER April, 1974.
-In contrast to the streets, there was the peace and beauty of the Red Port of Delhi. Built by the Ebghuls, it encloses within its massive sandstone walls, audience halls and az mosque of the most delicate white marble.
+In contrast to the streets, there was the peace and beauty of the Red Fort of Delhi. Built by the Moghuls, it encloses within its massive sandstone walls, audience halls and a mosque of the most delicate white marble.
-A tonga (horse-drawn carriage) ride in the evening to the railway- station provided our biggest thrill of the day. In peak-hour traffic similar to our own, and facing backwards, we were dr'ven down a main road. No vehicle ever seems , StiV'N
-to stop, not even cross traffic. At each intersection the vehicles
+A tonga (horse-drawn carriage) ride in the evening to the railway-station provided our biggest thrill of the day. In peak-hour traffic similar to our own, and facing backwards, we were driven down a main road. No vehicle ever seems to stop, not even cross traffic. At each intersection the vehicles would weave their ways through as if playing some complicated may-pole game. Vehicles are poorly lit, if at all. That every vehicle with a horn must blow it continually seems to be the only rule of the road.
- i _.:..1...
-r'sr--, E,--N. Cc I. F-7--.1 ;...,;-,-r-i,,It
+"Railway-Stations-We-Have-Slept-In" could be a story in itself, and Delhi the first chapter. Frank and I are snobs at heart, and always slept (on the floor) in 1st-Class Waiting Rooms, so we have no way of knowing if the size of the crowds, the amount of spitting and coughing, and the size of the rats, differs in 2nd or 3rd Class Rooms.
-as if playing some complicated / ,,,irkl-, > _ - y. 4 e"-L,1 i_ ' -T
-may-pole game. Vehicles are Ir- \- ,
+Already a day late when we arrived in Delhi, we had learned that there was a railways' strike (only one or two trains each day) and an airways strike had grounded every internal flight. (Later, we were to encounter a bus "go-slow".)
-T.,.. /--;;:e
-(PY
+Getting on trains proved a traumatic experience for us both. The trains would arrive already overflowing with people. On the two most crowded trains we were lucky enough to encounter a marvellous guard (the same one!) who knew what stupid, helpless Europeans we were and somehow got us inside the carriage.
-poorly lit, if at all. That 1 - , ' ii ' lielZ 4,- - -.A -
-) i- \
+No Indian in a 3rd Class carriage seems to travel without his family, bedding and pots and pans. Every available floor space and baggage rack is taken up with people. One ten-hour journey through the night saw Frank and me perched on wooden slatted benches, unable to put our feet on the floor because of sleeping people.
-i il: 'A i I ) 3t.-
-'- ---,?,,r ' -, -,..
+Later, under Owen's expert tuition, we learnt the secret of boarding buses and trains. Never try the crowded doorway - windows were made for climbing through. And don't bother about getting a foot-hold - throw your bedding down first, then immediately flop onto it.
-every vehicle with a horn must ', / --.,,.."-
-/ z-,-__ _ . .
+"How-to-get-your-luggage-out-of-the-railway-cloak-room-after-losing-the -luggage-ticket" is Frank's story. Although I lost the ticket, he is the one who saw every major railway official in the city and ended up in the police station. (He may forget to mention that prior to my losing the ticket he'd asked. "How are we going to fill in the next three hours until Ur train arrives?" I at least solved __that__ problem for us.)
-blow it continuzalY seems to, C'-`i f
-' ) Y
+Agra - The Muslims must surely have found the perfect balance between simplicity and decoration, and, for, me, symmetry can never again be unimaginative. All that I had read, every picture I had seen, did not prepare me for the beauty of the Taj Mahal.
-be the only rule of the road.. s'
-_. t.....6.---
+We rode in a tri-shaw through a mile of dusty, narrow streets, with the usual decaying buildings, people, cattle, some camels, street stalls, noise. The road ended abruptly and unexpectedly at a huge wall and gateway. Stepping through that gate is the stuff that fairy-tales are made of - out of poverty and noise into a world of wealth and beauty and silence. Lawns, gardens, long pools - and the Taj. Slowly approaching, the finer details of the tomb became visible; the delicate carvings of flowers in marble on the walls, and the inlaid work in semi-precious stones.
-C it
-\ i , \ ,,--, _,,-,..--- / -,
+The beauty is not all visual. Inside, there are the seemingly continuous echoes from even the softest voices, the coolness of the air, the feel of polished marble on bare feet, and the smell of incense arid flowers.
-.
- .  \ (4r\ IV
+(to be continued) Illustrations also by Helen Gray.
-1. j..7. '
-J kk / 1
+----
--,... 11,
-/
+=====  Book Review  =====
-"RailwayStationsWe-Have-.SleptIn" could be a story in itself,
-and Delhi the first chapter. Frank and I are snobs at heart, and always slept (on the floor) in 1st-Class Waiting Rooms, so we have no way of knowing if the size of the crowds, the amount of spitting and coughing, and the size of the rats, differs in 2nd or 3rd Class Rooms.
+by Spiro Ketas.
-Already a day late when we arrived in Delhi, we had learned that there was a railways' strike (only one or two trains each day) and an airways strike had grounded every internal flight. (Later, we were to encounter a bus "go-slow")
-Getting on trains proved a traumatic experience for us both. The trains would arrive already overflowing with people. On the two most crowded trains we were lucky enough to encounter a marvellous guard (the-same one!) who knew what
+"The MacDonnell Ranges." by Frank Rigby - Author, and Henry Gold - Photographer.
-stupid, helpless Europeans we were and somehow got us inside the carriage.
-No Indian in a 3rd Class carriage -seems to travel without his family, bedding and pots and pansf Every available floqr space and baggage rack is tak6n: up with people. One ten,-hour journey,through the ,- night saw Frank and me perched on wooden slatted beaches, unable to our feet on the floor because of sleeping people.
+Publishers - Rigby Ltd. Price - $8.50.
-would weave their ways through
-Page- 6- THE 'SYDNEY BUSHWAIICEER April 1974.
+In this, their first venture into the world of books, Henry Gold and Frank Rigby have succeeded in producing a travel book of a different and refreshing style. Their "emotional attachment to the MacDonell Ranges" becomes quite apparent to the reader and as a result some 100 or so really beautiful photographs and an informative and intimately descriptive text has been achieVed.
-Later, under Owens expert tuition; we learnt the secret of boarding buses and trains. Never try the crowded doorway - windows were made for climbing through. And don't bother about getting 11 a foot-hold - throw your bedding down first, then immediately flop onto it. (I
-"How-to-get-your-luggage-out-ofthe-railway-cloak-room-aft er-losing-the -.luggage-tichet" is Frank's story. Although I lost the ticket, he is the one who saw every major railway official in the city and ended up in the police
+The author's and photographer's knowledge of the area is first hand. Together, and with others, they have gone "walkabout" into this arid land. They have experienced its many moods and Henry Gold's photographs MAY tempt the reader to follow their footsteps. He has expertly captured the many colours of The Centre, the varied landscapes, the rocks, the trees and wild flowers. Tribute is paid to the explorer, John McDouall Stuart, and his companions, and present day adventurers are given sound information on what to see and what to take.
-station. (He may forget to mention that prior, to my- losing the ticket held asked. "How are we going to fill in the next three hours until Ur train arrives?" I at least solved. that problem for us.)
- OOOOO - 0
+Often misnamed the "Dead Heart of Australia" this book clearly assists in obliterating that myth, and demonstrates just how very much alive it is.
-The Muslims must surely have found the perfect balance between simplicity and decoration,, and., for,, me, symmetry can never again be unimaginatiye. All that I had. read., every picture I h64i seen, did not prepare me for the beauty of the ,Taj Mahal.
- We rode in a trishaw through a mile of '-ar a.st'7, narrow streets,..with,the usual decaying buildings, people, cattle, some camels, street
+----
-stalls; noise. The road. ended abruptly and.
-I
+===  News Item From The Sydney Morning Herald - 7 March, 1974:  ===
-unexpectedly at a huge wall and gateway.
-'"
+__N.T. Park to be preserved__.
-Stepping through that gate is the stuff that
-fairy-tales are made of -.out of poverty and noise into a world of wOalth and beauty and silence. Lawns, gardens, long pools - and. the Taj. Slowly approaching, the finer, details of the tomb became visible; the -delicate carvings of' flowers in, marble on. the walls, and the inlaid work in semi-precious stones.
+Canberra, Wednesday. The Australian Government announced plans today to check the deterioration of the Ayers Rock - Mount Olga National Park in the Northern Territory, and to preserve and develop it as a tourist reserve.
-The beauty is not all visual. Inside, there are the sedningly continuous echoes from even the softest voices, the coolness of the air, the feel of polished marble on bare feet, and the smell of incense arid flowers.
-     , to. be continued)
+Numbers of visitors to Ayers Rock and surrounding areas will be limited, and objects and sites of Aboriginal cultural significance will be protected.
-Illustrations also by ' Helen Gray.
-Page 7 THE SYDNEY BUSHWALKER April, 1974.
+----
-.,,
-BOOK REVIEW. by Spiro K.etas.
+===  Correction to Walks Programme:-  ===
-"The MacDonnellpRanges."
-y-3Aank. Rigby Author and Henry Gold - Photographer.
+Test Walk from Springwood 17/19th May.
-Pplishers - Rigby Ltd. Price - 48.50.
-In this, their first venture into the world of books, Henry Gold
+Frank Taeker's phone number has been incorrectly shown on the walks programme. The correct number is 690-444 Ext.551 (business).
-and Frank Rigby-have succeeded in producing a travel book of a different and refreshing style. Thigir "emotional attachment to the
-MacDonell Ranges" becomes quite apparent to the reader and as a result some 100 or so really-beautiful photographs and an informative and
+----
-intimately descriptive text has been achieVed.
-. The author's and photographer's knowledge of the area is first hand. Together, and with others, they have gone "walkabout" into
+===  Paddymade.  ===
-this arid land. They have experienced its many moods and Henry Gold's :photographs MAY tempt the reader to folaolaw their footsteps. He has expertly captured the many colours of The Centre, the-varied landscapes, the rocks, the trees and Wild flowers. Tribute is paid to the explorer, John McDouall Stuart,- and his companions, and present day :adVenturersare given sound information on what to-see and what to ta
--
+Lightweight bushwalking and camp gear.
-Often misnamed the "Dead'Heart of Australia" this book clearly
-assists in obliterating that myth, and demonstrates Just how very much alive it is.-
+__Bunyip Rucksack__
-***********XX
-N.T. PARK:.2_0BE PRESERVED.
+This 'shaped' rucksack is excellent for children. Useful day pack. Weight 14ozs.
-Canberra, Wednesday. The 'Australian Government announced plans today to check the deterioration of the Ayers Rock Mount Olga National Park in. the Northern Territory, and to preserve and develop it as a tourist reserve.
-Numbers of visitors to Ayers Rock and surrounding areas will be limited, and objects and sites of Aboriginal -cultural significance will be protected.
+__Senior Rucksack__
-CORRECTION TO WALKS PROGRAMOs- Test Walk from Springwood 17/19th May..
-' Frank Taeker's phone number has been incorrectly shown on the walks.
+A single pocket, shaped rucksack. Suitable for overnight camping. Weight 1½lbs.
-:
-programme. ' The correct number is 690-444 Ext.551 (business).
+__Bushman Rucksacks__
-BUNYIF RUCKSACK
-This 'shaped' rucicsack is excellent for children. Useful day peck. Weight 14ozs
+Have sewn-in curved bottom for extra comfort in carrying. Will hold 30 lbs. 2 pocket model 1¼lbs. 3 pocket model 1½lbs.
-SENIOR RUCKSACK
-A single pocket, shaped rucksack. Suitable for overnight camping. Weight I%lbs
+__Pioneer Rucksack__
-Lightweight bushwalking and camp gear
-BUSHMAN RUCKSACKS
+Extra large bag with four external pockets and will carry about 40lbs of camp gear. Weight 2¼lbs.
-Have sewn-in curved bottom for extra comfort in carrying. Win hold 30 lbs. 2 pocket mode; 1%lbs 3 pocket model 114lbs
-KIANORA MODEL
+__Mountaineer De Luxe__
-Hooded bag, Extra vvell filled. Very compact. Approx 351lbs.
-TRAMPER FRAME RUCKSACK
+Can carry 70lbs or more. Tough lightweight teryene/cotton, proofed fabric with special P.V.C. reinforced base. 20" x 17" x 9" proofed nylon extension throat with double draw cord for positive closure. Flap has full sized zip pocket of waterproof nylon. Outside pocket. Bag is easily detached from the frame to form a 3' sleeping bag cover for cold, wet conditions. Weight 6lbs.
-Young people and ladies will find this pack a good one. It wit carry sufficient camping equipment and food for 3 or 4 days or more. Has 3 pockets, capacity about 30 Ibs.
-Weight 4lbs.
+__Mountaineer__
-CARRYING BAGS P.V.C. or nylon.
-'A' TENTS
+Same features as de luxe model except for P.V.C. bottom reinforcing.
-One, two or three men. Frorn2 to33abs
+Weight 5¼lbs
--.01.- --"Ill 4\
-WALL TENTS
+__Timber Frame Rucksack__
-Two, three or four man. From 3Y io-41;411:Ts
-HOTHAM MODEL
+Young people and ladies will find this pack a good one. It will carry sufficient camping equipment and food for 3 or 4 days or more. Has 3 pockets, capacity about 30lbs. Weight 4lbs.
-Super warm. Box quilted. Added leg room. Approx 4%lbs.
-Compasses dry, oil filled or Wrist types.
+__Kiandra Model__
-Maps. Large range. Bushwalking books.
-Freeze dried and dehydrated foods.
+Hooded bag. Extra well filled. Very compact. Approx 3¾lbs.
-Stoves and lamps.
-Aluminium cook ware. Ground sheets.
+__Hotham Model__
-Everything forthe bushwalker.
-PIONEER RUCKSACK
+Super warm box quilted. Added leg room. Approx 4½lbs.
-is an extra large bag with four external pockets and will carry about 40Ibs of camp gear.
-Weight nibs
+__Carrying Bags__
-MOUNTAINEER DE LUXE Can carry 70Ibs or more. Tough lightweight terylend cotton, proofed fabric with special F.V.C. reinforced
-base. 20" x 17" x proofed nylon extension throat with double draw cord for positive closure. Flap has full sized zip pocket of waterproof nylon. Outside pocket. Bag is easily detached from the frame to form a3' sleeping bag cover for cold, wet conditions.
+P.V.C. or nylon.
-Weight Bibs
-MOUNTA/NEER
+__'A' Tents__
-Same features as de luxe model except for F.V.C. bottom reinforcing.
-Weight 51hlbs
+One, two or three men. From 2½ to 3¾lbs.
- LIVERPOOL ST., SYDNEY 26-2686, 61-7215
-Page 9 TEE symy BUSHWALKER Apri19 1974.
+__Wall Tents__
- Nmw.  4.11.1.
+Two, three or four man. From ½ to 4½lbs.
+Compasses: dry, oil filled or wrist types. Maps: Large range. Bushwalking books. Freeze dried and dehydrated foods. Stoves and lamps. Aluminium cook ware. Ground sheets. Everything for the bushwalker.
+**Paddy Pallin**
+ Liverpool St., Sydney. 26-2686, 61-7215.
+----
 CHRONICLES OF TA.1,11ALIA,_214t. by Kath Stuart.
 The notes on which the chronicles are based were not at first intended as such rather they were of a therapeutic nature for a mind grown vague with misuse/disuse (t;:iough in undertaking this I. am getting more therapy. than I bargained for, & style, and consequently the reader, suffers). I felt that a..few wellchosen (i"rom the associative point of view) words would do wonders fox. the memory. Dates were also included to keep things in roughly chronological order, but little else. Primary sources are thus often too scanty and in these cases I have had. to rely on. my unreliable memory, so, intending readers, be warned ; the following is merely BASED on fact, or an approximation to f..t. Names have not been. changed as there were no innocents.