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In the middle of our rapid 'happy hour' rain swept over us and we scrambled for cover, while Ian stoically piled logs over the fire. I checked the perimeters of my fly, decided that no floods would occur, and peeped out to see Ian leaning comfortably against a tree, with rain streaming from his parka, watching the roaring flames of a fire which even the downpour could not souse. Di and Tom were camped near me, and presently I heard music. They whiled away the stormy hour by singing bush ballads - very cool. Presently the rain eased, and we crept out to finish our interrupted eating, while the departing storm swore and stamped over Mt. Bogong. | In the middle of our rapid 'happy hour' rain swept over us and we scrambled for cover, while Ian stoically piled logs over the fire. I checked the perimeters of my fly, decided that no floods would occur, and peeped out to see Ian leaning comfortably against a tree, with rain streaming from his parka, watching the roaring flames of a fire which even the downpour could not souse. Di and Tom were camped near me, and presently I heard music. They whiled away the stormy hour by singing bush ballads - very cool. Presently the rain eased, and we crept out to finish our interrupted eating, while the departing storm swore and stamped over Mt. Bogong. | ||
- | ===January, 1991=== | + | ===January |
Awoke at 5.15 to a clear sky, and watched the first rays of the sun casting long shadows over Mt. Buffalo. We were away by 7.15, climbing Mt. Arthur in the cool of the morning. More terrible storm damage. The track frequently disappeared under fallen trees, We struggled endlessly, sweating profusely in the increasing heat. Our rewards were good views over the Grey Hills Range, and a good rest before the scrub bash down Black Possum Spur. We slithered and stumbled through the thick bush, at least there was no more storm damage. Our reward | Awoke at 5.15 to a clear sky, and watched the first rays of the sun casting long shadows over Mt. Buffalo. We were away by 7.15, climbing Mt. Arthur in the cool of the morning. More terrible storm damage. The track frequently disappeared under fallen trees, We struggled endlessly, sweating profusely in the increasing heat. Our rewards were good views over the Grey Hills Range, and a good rest before the scrub bash down Black Possum Spur. We slithered and stumbled through the thick bush, at least there was no more storm damage. Our reward | ||
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Stay where you are Mt. Bogong - cows or no cows, I think I will be back. | Stay where you are Mt. Bogong - cows or no cows, I think I will be back. | ||
+ | =====An Account of the SBW Trip to Nepal, November 1990 (Part II)===== | ||
+ | (By Tom Wenman) | ||
- | AN ACCOUNT OF THE SBW TRIP TO NEPAL, NOVEMBER 1990 (Part II) | ||
- | (By Tom Wenman) | ||
The second part of our walk was completely different from the earlier part in several ways. | The second part of our walk was completely different from the earlier part in several ways. | ||
- | From Lukla onwards we joined the very popular trekking route to the Everest Base Camp. The altitude, not a significant factor hitherto, now became very important, determining our progress, The altitude also meant that temperatures could be quite low, and conditions difficult. We embarked on this part of the trip with mixed feelings as we had so enjoyed the walk thus far, with the friendliness of the inhabitants and the | + | |
- | remoteness from other walking groups. | + | From Lukla onwards we joined the very popular trekking route to the Everest Base Camp. The altitude, not a significant factor hitherto, now became very important, determining our progress. The altitude also meant that temperatures could be quite low, and conditions difficult. We embarked on this part of the trip with mixed feelings as we had so enjoyed the walk thus far, with the friendliness of the inhabitants and the remoteness from other walking groups. |
- | , As soon as we joined the main route we began encountering many more walkers, indeed there seemed to be a virtual avalanche of them returning from the (very) high country. Many were Germans or German speaking and all had a very serious demenour. So much so, that we began to wonder exactly what did lie aheaaTxmy, with his friendly enquiring attitude was at great pains to obtain from the returning trekkers, their impressions as to the conditions and why many of them looked so glum. However apart from the information that it was colder no particular reason could be ascertained for their lack of happiness. | + | |
- | We were delighted to meet once again, Angela and David who had been staying at the village of Phakding (just past Lukla) awaiting our arrival. Angela seemed to have fully recovered, and we were happy that the group was now cOmplete. | + | As soon as we joined the main route we began encountering many more walkers, indeed there seemed to be a virtual avalanche of them returning from the (very) high country. Many were Germans or German speaking and all had a very serious demenour. So much so, that we began to wonder exactly what did lie ahead. Tony, with his friendly enquiring attitude was at great pains to obtain from the returning trekkers, their impressions as to the conditions and why many of them looked so glum. However apart from the information that it was colder no particular reason could be ascertained for their lack of happiness. |
- | Our way now led us up the Dudh Kosi river, so called because of its milky white colour, due to the sediment of the terminal.morraines from which it flowed. The programme of Walking, carefully planned to provide the acclimatization necessary for the trip, within the time available, had scheduled Namche Bazaar as the next destination. | + | |
+ | We were delighted to meet once again, Angela and David who had been staying at the village of Phakding (just past Lukla) awaiting our arrival. Angela seemed to have fully recovered, and we were happy that the group was now complete. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Our way now led us up the Dudh Kosi river, so called because of its milky white colour, due to the sediment of the terminal morraines from which it flowed. The programme of walking, carefully planned to provide the acclimatization necessary for the trip, within the time available, had scheduled Namche Bazaar as the next destination. | ||
This was within the Sagarmatha National Park which encompassed all of the area we were to visit. | This was within the Sagarmatha National Park which encompassed all of the area we were to visit. | ||
- | Leaving Phakding we followed a roaring tumultuous Dudh Kos!, upstream through many small villages and a variety of tea\lodging houses many newly built or still building. The steep slopes bordering the river were thinly covered with pine trees, many newly planted and sprinkled with Rhodedendron trees and occasionally birch. The air was clean and very clear and the towering sharp pointed snow blitzed peaks gave us dramatic evidence of our location. - | ||
- | The track was very busy and consequently very dusty. Frequently there was considerable traffic congestion, where trekkers, porters, sherpas, yaks and zopchioks converged on a bottle neck, however notwithstanding all this hustle, bustle and dust, the constant vision of the now, not so distant peaks and ridges provided an inspiration for Our progress. We entered Sagarmatha National Park through a significant pass to which we had climbed from Phakding. Our trekking permits were checked and we descended once again to the Dudh Kosi. This we followed crossing several times, eventually by a dramatic suspension bridge high above a deep gorge, when we finally left it for the climb to Namche Bazaar. Our progress through the Pine and Juniper trees though slow due to the gradient and other traffic was quite delightful. A window on the next part of our trek was provided at the Everest View tea house Where we were able to obtain the first view of the top of Everest and its surrounding mountains which we had had on the trek. A tantalising iglimpse of what was to come. | ||
- | A special mention should be made of Nannche Bazaar, because, apart from the rather poor campsite in the stockyard attached to the hotel, and with possibly one of the most revolting toilets encountered so far, It Marked quite significantly our entry into the world of the high peaks which we had come so far to see. | ||
- | Here we enjoyed a so called rest and acclimatization day during which we climbed up to the National Park Head Quarters. Here, on a splendidly located site, overlooked by some mighty rock and snow ridges we had the most superb view of the concentration of high peaks surrounding Everest, as well as Everest itself crowning the Nuptse Ridge which lay before it. The view looked right up the valley of the Dudh Kosi which we were due to continue to follow and included the beautiful and somewhat isolated peak of Ama Dablam (6856 m). | ||
+ | Leaving Phakding we followed a roaring tumultuous Dudh Kosi, upstream through many small villages and a variety of tea\lodging houses many newly built or still building. The steep slopes bordering the river were thinly covered with pine trees, many newly planted and sprinkled with Rhodedendron trees and occasionally birch. The air was clean and very clear and the towering sharp pointed snow blitzed peaks gave us dramatic evidence of our location. | ||
+ | The track was very busy and consequently very dusty. Frequently there was considerable traffic congestion, where trekkers, porters, sherpas, yaks and zopchioks converged on a bottle neck, however notwithstanding all this hustle, bustle and dust, the constant vision of the now, not so distant peaks and ridges provided an inspiration for our progress. We entered Sagarmatha National Park through a significant pass to which we had climbed from Phakding. Our trekking permits were checked and we descended once again to the Dudh Kosi. This we followed crossing several times, eventually by a dramatic suspension bridge high above a deep gorge, when we finally left it for the climb to Namche Bazaar. Our progress through the Pine and Juniper trees though slow due to the gradient and other traffic was quite delightful. A window on the next part of our trek was provided at the Everest View tea house where we were able to obtain the first view of the top of Everest and its surrounding mountains which we had had on the trek. A tantalising glimpse of what was to come. | ||
+ | |||
+ | A special mention should be made of Nannche Bazaar, because, apart from the rather poor campsite in the stockyard attached to the hotel, and with possibly one of the most revolting toilets encountered so far, it marked quite significantly our entry into the world of the high peaks which we had come so far to see. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Here we enjoyed a so called rest and acclimatization day during which we climbed up to the National Park Head Quarters. Here, on a splendidly located site, overlooked by some mighty rock and snow ridges we had the most superb view of the concentration of high peaks surrounding Everest, as well as Everest itself crowning the Nuptse Ridge which lay before it. The view looked right up the valley of the Dudh Kosi which we were due to continue to follow and included the beautiful and somewhat isolated peak of Ama Dablam (6856 m). | ||
The whole scene was of such a mountain grandeur which few of us had encountered before, that the question was heard, "Why go any further?" | The whole scene was of such a mountain grandeur which few of us had encountered before, that the question was heard, "Why go any further?" | ||
- | Well, to go further we were committed, and so the next day began our ascent to Thyangboche, | + | |
- | . The monastery buildings were now dominated by a partially completed Gompa - the previous one having been destroyed by fire about a year ago. The monastery grounds were located on a commanding saddle, and our campsite at the northern end afforded us good views of Lohtse, Nuptse and Everest. We were also pleased to be camping on grass. Sunset prevailed to cast an aura of expectation and excitement as we watched for the first time the changing colours of gold on the very high mountains, until finally Everest was the only one with the sun on its triangular peak. During this time Geoff, very kindly lent me the use of his small Portable | + | Well, to go further we were committed, and so the next day began our ascent to Thyangboche, |
- | Our next day. at Thyangboche was scheduled as a rest and acclimatization day, and according to plan we ascended some 500 metres up 'a nearby hill which gave us some superb views of the Thyangboche area and further up the valley, Ama Dablam. That afternoon we inspected the new monastery building. It is a superb edifice, built of dry stone. walls, about 2 feet thick, and is of traditional design with a clerestory lantern surmounting the roof. The wood work was of local pine of substantial dimension and looked quite beautiful in its rawness. | + | |
- | On the morrow our walk resumed over frozen ground, and the sun eventually proved warm enough for us to forsake long johns and parkas. Our way, again somewhat gradual in its ascent, included a visit to the very old monastery of Pangboche. Here we inspected a Yeti skull and listened and watched with interest to the chanting of the monks accompanied by the throbbing beat of a drum. It all seemed | + | The monastery buildings were now dominated by a partially completed Gompa - the previous one having been destroyed by fire about a year ago. The monastery grounds were located on a commanding saddle, and our campsite at the northern end afforded us good views of Lohtse, Nuptse and Everest. We were also pleased to be camping on grass. Sunset prevailed to cast an aura of expectation and excitement as we watched for the first time the changing colours of gold on the very high mountains, until finally Everest was the only one with the sun on its triangular peak. During this time, Geoff, very kindly lent me the use of his small portable |
- | Again a gradual ascent under blue skies with constant local distractions of other parties on the track, and superb views down into the valley of the steep ridges and.creeks, whilst ahead, above and around loomed one superb snow spattered peak and ridge after another. | + | |
- | Dingboche (4860 m) more than previously epitomised the still semi nomadic nature of the people. A barren looking, dry stone walled village which grew- barley and other crops during the summer, but would be even bleaker in winter, with some Inhabitants | + | Our next day at Thyangboche was scheduled as a rest and acclimatization day, and according to plan we ascended some 500 metres up a nearby hill which gave us some superb views of the Thyangboche area and further up the valley, Ama Dablam. That afternoon we inspected the new monastery building. It is a superb edifice, built of dry stone walls, about 2 feet thick, and is of traditional design with a clerestory lantern surmounting the roof. The wood work was of local pine of substantial dimension and looked quite beautiful in its rawness. |
- | Here another rest and acclimatization day where most of us struggled up a local hill to about the height we would camp, on the next day. Once again we watchedthe | + | |
- | Day 20 of our trek and -10 night but again a clear and sunny morning for the walk to the highest campsite | + | On the morrow our walk resumed over frozen ground, and the sun eventually proved warm enough for us to forsake long johns and parkas. Our way, again somewhat gradual in its ascent, included a visit to the very old monastery of Pangboche. Here we inspected a Yeti skull and listened and watched with interest to the chanting of the monks accompanied by the throbbing beat of a drum. It all seemed |
- | Lobuche (4930 m) was a not a pretty sight and we resigned ourselves to camping amongst the dust, rubbish and other trekkers for two nights. As with previous evenings when the sun went down, the | + | |
- | y 1991 The Sydney Bushwalker Page 9 | + | Again a gradual ascent under blue skies with constant local distractions of other parties on the track, and superb views down into the valley of the steep ridges and creeks, whilst ahead, above and around loomed one superb snow spattered peak and ridge after another. |
- | temperature dropped. rapidly | + | |
- | An early start for our final daVs ascent. | + | Dingboche (4860 m) more than previously epitomised the still semi nomadic nature of the people. A barren looking, dry stone walled village which grew barley and other crops during the summer, but would be even bleaker in winter, with some inhabitants |
- | It was hard going and the altitude took its toll as,we.first followed an icy creek up the valley and then began the climb over several morraine ridges of the Changri Nup Glacier to the two or three small stone buildings which marked the semi permanent village of Gorakshep, at the foot of Kala Pattar7(Blacksock), which was our ultimate destination. | + | |
- | We began the ascent of this seemingly | + | Here another rest and acclimatization day where most of us struggled up a local hill to about the height we would camp, on the next day. Once again we watched the sun go down on the peaks further up the valley until only the highest were illuminated, |
- | We had frequently paused to admire the view on the way up, but now with some relief we looked at the grand amphitheatre of some of the highest peaks in the world. Naturally our gaze focussed on the massive bulk of Everest, and our eyes followed the original route by'which it was climbed, up the Khumbu ice fall, which looked remarkably. Insignificant | + | |
- | Descent was easy but we were all very tired when we stopped again at Gorekshep where lunch was provided for us. Then the long slog back to Lobuche which was enlivened by a mighty avalanche pouring off Nuptse, and we were pleased to be welcomed on our return with cups of tea and hot water for washing'. We were now In the very much relaxed stage of our trip, and whilst we continued to enjoy the mountain views, our thoughts were about flying | + | Day 20 of our trek and -10° night but again a clear and sunny morning for the walk to the highest campsite |
+ | |||
+ | Lobuche (4930 m) was a not a pretty sight and we resigned ourselves to camping amongst the dust, rubbish and other trekkers for two nights. As with previous evenings when the sun went down, the temperature dropped rapidly - down eventually to -13°. Notwithstanding the grottiness of our surroundings, | ||
+ | |||
+ | An early start for our final days ascent. | ||
+ | |||
+ | It was hard going and the altitude took its toll as we first followed an icy creek up the valley and then began the climb over several morraine ridges of the Changri Nup Glacier to the two or three small stone buildings which marked the semi permanent village of Gorakshep, at the foot of Kala Pattar | ||
+ | |||
+ | We began the ascent of this seemingly | ||
+ | |||
+ | We had frequently paused to admire the view on the way up, but now with some relief we looked at the grand amphitheatre of some of the highest peaks in the world. Naturally our gaze focussed on the massive bulk of Everest, and our eyes followed the original route by which it was climbed, up the Khumbu ice fall, which looked remarkably | ||
+ | |||
+ | Descent was easy but we were all very tired when we stopped again at Gorekshep where lunch was provided for us. Then the long slog back to Lobuche which was enlivened by a mighty avalanche pouring off Nuptse, and we were pleased to be welcomed on our return with cups of tea and hot water for washing. We were now in the very much relaxed stage of our trip, and whilst we continued to enjoy the mountain views, our thoughts were about flying | ||
Very definitely a worthwhile trip, which was well organised. For myself, I enjoyed everyday of it and don't regret a dollar of the cost. | Very definitely a worthwhile trip, which was well organised. For myself, I enjoyed everyday of it and don't regret a dollar of the cost. | ||
- | Letter to the Editor | + | |
- | a. The 26th Paddy Pallin rogaine will be held on Sunday, 16th June. Is it possible for a team to represent the club as well as private entries? | + | =====Letter to the Editor.===== |
- | b. The annual Paddy Pallin X/C Ski Classic will be held on Saturday, August 3 in Perisher. | + | |
- | Both events allow people to compete for fun in much the same way as the "City to Surf Fun Run" does. We are keen to see peiple | + | from Paddy Pallin Pty Ltd. |
+ | |||
+ | I am writing to enlist your support in helping to promote two coming events. | ||
+ | |||
+ | - The 26th Paddy Pallin rogaine will be held on Sunday, 16th June. Is it possible for a team to represent the club as well as private entries? | ||
+ | | ||
+ | | ||
+ | Both events allow people to compete for fun in much the same way as the "City to Surf Fun Run" does. We are keen to see people | ||
Entry forms will be available from Paddy Pallin at Kent Street City or Miranda from early May. | Entry forms will be available from Paddy Pallin at Kent Street City or Miranda from early May. | ||
- | Thank you for your help. Ian Gibson, Managing Director | + | |
- | 44- if it- * | + | Thank you for your help. |
- | Qu | + | |
- | QBB 1\ Batter Concentrate | + | Ian Gibson, Managing Director |
- | WA | + | |
- | | + | |
- | Goretex Clothing Cycle Panniers | + | |
- | NT | + | |
- | Beef Jer | + | |
- | | + | |
- | | + | |
- | Giant Trees Dried meals | + | |
- | NSW | + | |
- | | + | |
- | | + | |
- | | + | |
- | Day Packs High Tops, Summit Gear | + | |
- | | + | |
- | | + | |
- | | + | |
- | | + | |
- | TAS. | + | |
- | * Blundstone Boots | + | |
- | EASTWOOD | + | |
- | CAMPING | + | |
- | CENTRE | + | |
- | 3 Trelawney St (PO Box 131) Eastwood NSW 2122 | + | |
- | ACT | + | |
- | | + | |
- | SA | + | |
- | Rossi ,/ ).9ts | + | |
- | | + | |
- | May 1991 The Sydney Bushwalker Page 11 | + | |
JIM. BROWN' | JIM. BROWN' | ||
by Errol Sheedy | by Errol Sheedy |
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