Differences

This shows you the differences between two versions of the page.

--- 199509 [2016/06/17 18:16] – [The Sydney Bum Detectives] vievems
+++ 199509 [2016/06/17 19:01] – [Wolfe's Wilderness Wanderings] vievems
@@ Line 255: / Line 255: @@
 Tasmania 1995\\ by Louise Verdian
-Our group of six congregated over the course of a day at the Youth Hostel in Hobart. We were all greatly excited by the 14 day walk ahead of us: It was to take us along some of the most 'spectacialie coastline Of southern Tasmania and then onto the highest mountains along the Pindar Range. .r
+Our group of six congregated over the course of a day at the Youth Hostel in Hobart. We were all greatly excited by the 14 day walk ahead of us. It was to take us along some of the most spectacular coastline of southern Tasmania and then onto the highest mountains along the Pindar Range.
-The next morning we were all off to a flying start - showers, hearty breakfasts :and that last minute fiddle with the packs:a We trarisferredby bus to. Coclde Creek which waslhe-start of the South'Ceast Track At Cockle: Creek we were greeted by a very enthusiastic ranger who methodically detailed minimal impact camping and reminded us of a $5,000 fine for lighting fires in the non- beach areas. 4::
-And so it was that each one of us doriifed'a'lieavy but certainly. not unmanageable; '14 day pack and headed off along the South Coast track. Initially the track meandered through light forest and then opened onto a button grass plain 'called the Blowhole Valley. From the valley we obtained wonderful views of Lion Rock, Coal Bluff and finally South Coast Rivulet where we were to camp on our first night.
+The next morning we were all off to a flying start - showers, hearty breakfasts and that last minute fiddle with the packs.  We transferred by bus to Cockle Creek which was the start of the South Coast Track.  At Cockle Creek we were greeted by a very enthusiastic ranger who methodically detailed minimal impact camping and reminded us of a $5,000 fine for lighting fires in the non-beach areas.
-The campsite' 'at South Coast'Rivulet was juxtaposed.. between a well sheltered lagoon &one:side and fearsome - wild Ocean an the other. PotarooS frequented the campsites but unlike Ian's visit six years previously there were no platypi to be seen sifting the banks of the lagoon on dusk.
-We had an early start the next morning as this section of the trip entailed a steady climb Of about 670 metres. In parts the track became quite, Muddy. It meandered through glorious rainforest onto the South Coast Range.. At the end of the range the track suddenly opened 'onto a rugged cliff that was to be the , descent mite Granite Beach.
+And so it was that each one of us donned a heavy, but certainly not unmanageable, 14 day pack and headed off along the South Coast track. Initially the track meandered through light forest and then opened onto a button grass plain called the Blowhole Valley. From the valley we obtained wonderful views of Lion Rock, Coal Bluff and finally South Coast Rivulet where we were to camp on our first night.
-l.
-Our descent was aided by a well p 'aced rope and ragged rocky outcrops that provided excellent footholds. Granite Beach was quite an anomaly, a thin strip of beach showered by a dense assortment ,of
+The campsite at South Coast Rivulet was juxtaposed between a well sheltered lagoon on one side and fearsome wild ocean on the other. Potaroos frequented the campsites but unlike Ian's visit six years previously there were no platypi to be seen sifting the banks of the lagoon on dusk.
-boulders and pebbles. At the entrance to the beach was a gentle waterfall. In the middle of the beach was the campsite set on a plateau some 12 metres above the beach. In the far distance the boulders gradually y#0-ted.,and,once again became sand. There was plenty
-to'eXplOre the 6M-ire
+We had an early start the next morning as this section of the trip entailed a steady climb of about 670 metres. In parts the track became quite muddy. It meandered through glorious rainforest onto the South Coast Range. At the end of the range the track suddenly opened onto a rugged cliff that was to be the descent onto Granite Beach.
-beach. We ended the evening watching the sea mist roll in to engulf the beach.
-- Our plans for a sidetrip to South Cape the next day were thWarted. Unfortunately a light drizzle had set and the fluted cliffline was shrouded in ,a heavy blanket of cloud. Instead each tent group packed at their own pace and ambled over to ,Surprise Bay. It wadelightful to climb along a steep track Out of Granite Beach into a rainforest where one's olfactory senses were bombarded by the heady scent of leathei*pod trees. The once muddy track was now - carpeted by a confetti of leatherWoOd Petals.
+Our descent was aided by a well placed rope and ragged rocky outcrops that provided excellent footholds. Granite Beach was quite an anomaly, a thin strip of beach showered by a dense assortment of boulders and pebbles. At the entrance to the beach was a gentle waterfall. In the middle of the beach was the campsite set on a plateau some 12 metres above the beach. In the far distance the boulders gradually vanished and once again became sand. There was plenty of time before and after dinner to explore the entire beach. We ended the evening watching the sea mist roll in to engulf the beach.
-A party of eight had occupied the campsite at Surprise Bay. We back tracked a small way to a Very large campsite that overlooked the beach. Surprise Bay was ideal for fish:Mg.,' Not only were there a number of rocky outcrops from which to throw a line abut at the other end of the beach were waist deep pools where the other party had caught a large crayfish.
-The trip from Surprise Bay to Osmiridium beach was an easy day.: two hours we were at the campsite beside Taylors creek. After lunch we spent many hours exploring this intriguing beach. The beach was divided
+Our plans for a sidetrip to South Cape the next day were thwarted. Unfortunately a light drizzle had set in and the fluted cliffline was shrouded in a heavy blanket of cloud. Instead each tent group packed at their own pace and ambled over to Surprise Bay. It was delightful to climb along a steep track out of Granite Beach into a rainforest where one's olfactory senses were bombarded by the heady scent of leatherwood trees. The once muddy track was now carpeted by a confetti of leatherwood petals.
-into two At the western end one could scramble over the rocks, climb the rocks with,the aid of a rope and end up in a a well hidden private cove. It was probably an ideal place to fish. To get ..to the eastern end of the beach one had to venture a little way out into the sea to get around a rocky outcrop and into the other part of the beaa: It was a curious labyrinth Of rockpools and large expanses of sedimentary rocks.
-In the late afternoon we had our first clear glimpses of Precipitous Bluff from the beach. The cloud lifted just long enough to admire the' majesty of this 1400 metre Peak,
+A party of eight had occupied the campsite at Surprise Bay. We back tracked a small way to a very large campsite that overlooked the beach. Surprise Bay was ideal for fishing. Not only were there a number of rocky outcrops from which to throw a line but at the other end of the beach were waist deep pools where the other party had caught a large crayfish.
-There was a more serious start to the sixth day of the trip as this day we left those wonderful' isolated beaches and headed inland towards Precipitous Bluff yVithin a couple of hours we had travelled through light forest and then descended very steeply down sand dunes that :overlooked Prion beach and Milford. Creek. We took a 'brief exploratory detour along the sandbank at Priori Beach but quickly realised this route Would become inaccessible. We backtracked to the west bank of Milford creek and climbed steeply up the sand dunes onto a lightly timbered crest then descended again to the sand dunes.
-By morning tea we were at the Prion Beach boat crossing. From here one can cross the mouth of New River Lagoon and continue towards the 'ilropbound
+The trip from Surprise Bay to Osmiridium beach was an easy day.  Within two hours we were at the campsite beside Taylors creek.  After lunch we spent many hours exploring this intriguing beach. The beach was divided
- Ranges to Malaleuca. In our case we did not cr'asSAhe lagoon but headed inland, wading through the lagoon for a number Of hours. The lagoon is approximately nine kilometres: in length and due to low rainfall was never more than knee deep. Black swans graced the inner parts of the lagoon and at one point we had a brief glimpse of Federation Peak. By early afternoon we had finished wading the warm brackish waters of the Iagoon:andhad settled into a very pretty campsite. The weather remained overcast but the cloud stayed high.
+into two parts.  At the western end one could scramble over the rocks, climb the rocks with the aid of a rope and end up in a a well hidden private cove.  It was probably an ideal place to fish. To get to the eastern end of the beach one had to venture a little way out into the sea to get around a rocky outcrop and into the other part of the beach.  It was a curious labyrinth of rockpools and large expanses of sedimentary rocks.
-The big day had finally arrived - the ascent to Precipitious Bluff High Camp. Cavers Cave was the last place to have a saturation drink and to collect water. From this point we climbed through ancient rainforest. The track was very easy to lose The ribbon markers were either very sparse or. non-existent.
-The rainforest ceased abruptly at around 1200 metres. Our track now led us around the base of a precipitous dolorite cliff to a magnificent lunch spot. We had a cloudless view of New River Lagoon, the coastline of Prion Beach and the4ronbound Range.
+In the late afternoon we had our first clear glimpses of Precipitous Bluff from the beach. The cloud lifted just long enough to admire the majesty of this 1400 metre peak.
-As we continued the Climb, the, views became absolutely breathtaking. The final assault was via a narrow gully formed by fallen dolorite columns. We made camp in a small semi sheltered area on the summit. This area was a gently sloping garden of small pandanus, venus fly traps, mosses and 'Alpine grasses. Dolerite boulders were scattered along the peak.
-Unfortunately the cloud came over and it quickly became very windy and cold. PesPite,the cloud we still climbed to the summit to make our mark in the logbook.. - On this night everyone retired early to their_tents to cook dinner and sleep.
+There was a more serious start to the sixth day of the trip as this day we left those wonderful isolated beaches and headed inland towards Precipitous Bluff.  Within a couple of hours we had travelled through light forest and then descended very steeply down sand dunes that overlooked Prion beach and Milford Creek.  We took a brief exploratory detour along the sandbank at Prion Beach but quickly realised this route would become inaccessible. We backtracked to the west bank of Milford creek and climbed steeply up the sand dunes onto a lightly timbered crest then descended again to the sand dunes.
-All night our tents were buffeted y a furious wind. We spent the next day'in. our ,tents likeriing the rage outside. The day after the cloud remained low and gloomy but by this stage, it was time to break canip and head to Precipitous Bluff Low Camp despite the weather..
-Clouds kept rolling. over, the valley throughout the morning ,,but by early afterhoon started to clear. We donned the day packs and made our way back to Precipitous Bluff summit. At 4 pm our two day wait was rewarded by mesmerizing views of Federation and its jagged peaks, the., whole southern coastline, New River Lagoon and the surrounding mountain ranges.
+By morning tea we were at the Prion Beach boat crossing. From here one can cross the mouth of New River Lagoon and continue towards the Ironbound Ranges to Melaleuca.  In our case we did not cross the lagoon but headed inland, wading through the lagoon for a number of hours. The lagoon is approximately nine kilometres in length and due to low rainfall was never more than knee deep. Black swans graced the inner parts of the lagoon and at one point we had a brief glimpse of Federation Peak. By early afternoon we had finished wading the warm brackish waters of the lagoon and had settled into a very pretty campsite. The weather remained overcast but the cloud stayed high.
-On day nine'we started walking in glorious sunshine. At least the sandfly bites were less itchy. We traversed the Kameruka range. It was mostly scrub-covered boulders and forests of six fool: scrub. From Tramp Camp we were in a maze. of eight foot Pandanus Forest and the track was difficult to find. After lunch at Wylie Knob: we walked onto Wylie Plateau to make camp. Again there were no problems finding water as. Huey decided rain, wind and mist were the order of the day. Ian and Paul even decided'to ignore Huey altogether and climb Mt Victoria Cross. "
-From,,,Yrylie Plateau our group wandered ,to Ooze Lake via 'Coning Tree Saddle, Pindari Knob and Pindar Peak. On Piri'd' ar Mountain the winds were gusting at about 100 kms per hour. Two, of our members were reduced to crawling up the mountain and hanging ontoany boulder or bush that would secure them to the ground. It was much easier walking on the lee side of Mt Pindar and at afternoon tea some still had enough energy to reach the summit of Mt Pindar while others enjoyed a well earned rest. From- Mt Pindar we could review the semicircular route we had walked that day. By late afternoon we were walking down a steep slope towards Ooze Lake.
+The big day had finally arrived - the ascent to Precipitious Bluff High Camp. Cavers Cave was the last place to have a saturation drink and to collect water. From this point we climbed through ancient rainforest. The track was very easy to lose.  The ribbon markers were either very sparse or non-existent.
-Now you may be wondering why its called Ooze Lake. I'm not sure as to the true origin of its name but from observation it would appear that the whole mountainside was oozing with water. There were rivulets of water everywhere and we had a very cramped campsite trying to avoid the watercourses. We also had some trouble with boot-stealing wildlife about an hour after we had retired. A quoll had taken a liking to our leader's left boot. It was found about 10 metres away from his tent in an undamaged state but another party member was not so lucky. She had found one boot that night with a quoll sitting inside it, and the next day, after some considerable searching, found the other boot in the woods but with the tongue and side chewed out of the boot! Nonetheless the boot was still quite useable.
-From Ooze Lake we walked via Maxwell Ridge and took a sidetrip to Mt La Perouse and the Cockscomb before arriving at Reservoir Lake. It was a very energetic climb to the summit of Mt La Perouse but our efforts were richly rewarded. The summit was barren except' for a few snow diifts. There was also a huge cairn to Which we all added our donation of one rock each. We found a sheltered lunch spot and enjoyed fabulous views over the Swallow Lakes and to the far south including Cockle Creek and the Blow Hole Valley. On the other side of Mt La Perouse summit there were views of the Cockscomb, the Hippo and even Mt Pindar.
+The rainforest ceased abruptly at around 1200 metres. Our track now led us around the base of a precipitous dolorite cliff to a magnificent lunch spot. We had a cloudless view of New River Lagoon, the coastline of Prion Beach and the Ironbound Range.
-Reservoir Lake is actually two tiered lakes joined by a small waterfall. The upper lake has a large quartz-like shelf which leads into a beautiful forest of mature mossy King Billy Pines. From Reservoir Lake we had easy access to Pigsty Ponds and Arndefl Falls.
-The rain didn't let up the next day. We set out in light drizzle and Mist and by mid afternoon we were knee deep in mud and "tracks" that were nothing more than fast 'flowing streams. We arrived mid afternoon at Moonlight Flats and ten minutes after the tents were erected the sun was out again.
+As we continued the climb, the views became absolutely breathtaking. The final assault was via a narrow gully formed by fallen dolorite columns. We made camp in a small semi sheltered area on the summit. This area was a gently sloping garden of small pandanus, venus fly traps, mosses and Alpine grasses. Dolerite boulders were scattered along the peak.
-Our last day was spent Wading through muddy tracks but enjoying glorious sunshine. As we traversed the plateau we could see the Hippo and the mountains we had missed the day before. We descended through rainforest saying good-bye to the mountains. By lunchtime we had arrived at an old quarry which was only half an hour from our pickup point.
+Unfortunately the cloud came over and it quickly became very windy and cold. Despite the cloud we still climbed to the summit to make our mark in the logbook.  On this night everyone retired early to their tents to cook dinner and sleep.
+All night our tents were buffeted by a furious wind. We spent the next day in our tents listening to the rage outside. The day after the cloud remained low and gloomy but by this stage, it was time to break camp and head to Precipitous Bluff Low Camp despite the weather.
+Clouds kept rolling over the valley throughout the morning but by early afterhoon started to clear. We donned the day packs and made our way back to Precipitous Bluff summit. At 4pm our two day wait was rewarded by mesmerizing views of Federation and its jagged peaks, the whole southern coastline, New River Lagoon and the surrounding mountain ranges.
+On day nine we started walking in glorious sunshine. At least the sandfly bites were less itchy. We traversed the Kameruka range. It was mostly scrub-covered boulders and forests of six foot scrub. From Tramp Camp we were in a maze of eight foot Pandanus Forest and the track was difficult to find. After lunch at Wylie Knob we walked onto Wylie Plateau to make camp. Again there were no problems finding water as Huey decided rain, wind and mist were the order of the day. Ian and Paul even decided to ignore Huey altogether and climb Mt Victoria Cross.
+From Wylie Plateau our group wandered to Ooze Lake via Leaning Tree Saddle, Pindari Knob and Pindar Peak. On Pindar Mountain the winds were gusting at about 100 kms per hour. Two of our members were reduced to crawling up the mountain and hanging on to any boulder or bush that would secure them to the ground. It was much easier walking on the lee side of Mt Pindar and at afternoon tea some still had enough energy to reach the summit of Mt Pindar while others enjoyed a well earned rest.  From Mt Pindar we could review the semicircular route we had walked that day. By late afternoon we were walking down a steep slope towards Ooze Lake.
+Now you may be wondering why it's called Ooze Lake. I'm not sure as to the true origin of its name but from observation it would appear that the whole mountainside was oozing with water. There were rivulets of water everywhere and we had a very cramped campsite trying to avoid the watercourses. We also had some trouble with boot-stealing wildlife about an hour after we had retired. A quoll had taken a liking to our leader's left boot. It was found about 10 metres away from his tent in an undamaged state but another party member was not so lucky. She had found one boot that night with a quoll sitting inside it, and the next day, after some considerable searching, found the other boot in the woods but with the tongue and side chewed out of the boot! Nonetheless the boot was still quite useable.
+From Ooze Lake we walked via Maxwell Ridge and took a sidetrip to Mt La Perouse and the Cockscomb before arriving at Reservoir Lake. It was a very energetic climb to the summit of Mt La Perouse but our efforts were richly rewarded. The summit was barren except for a few snow drifts. There was also a huge cairn to which we all added our donation of one rock each. We found a sheltered lunch spot and enjoyed fabulous views over the Swallow Lakes and to the far south including Cockle Creek and the Blow Hole Valley. On the other side of Mt La Perouse summit there were views of the Cockscomb, the Hippo and even Mt Pindar.
+Reservoir Lake is actually two tiered lakes joined by a small waterfall. The upper lake has a large quartz-like shelf which leads into a beautiful forest of mature mossy King Billy Pines. From Reservoir Lake we had easy access to Pigsty Ponds and Arndell Falls.
+The rain didn't let up the next day. We set out in light drizzle and mist and by mid afternoon we were knee deep in mud and "tracks" that were nothing more than fast flowing streams. We arrived mid afternoon at Moonlight Flats and ten minutes after the tents were erected the sun was out again.
+Our last day was spent wading through muddy tracks but enjoying glorious sunshine. As we traversed the plateau we could see the Hippo and the mountains we had missed the day before. We descended through rainforest saying good-bye to the mountains. By lunchtime we had arrived at an old quarry which was only half an hour from our pickup point.
 It had been a wonderful trip full of contrast and adventure. Thanks again Ian for a truly memorable experience.